Nice one Stev
I just cut a small hole in the tyre cover
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Nice one Stev
I just cut a small hole in the tyre cover
Miraz. I believe it complies as you can see the plate at 45• from any angle. Better than the standard position under the spare where funnily enough it does not comply
Ill see how ir goes but thanks
early 90s Pajero have there number plate off to the side as early prado... they are leagal
early jeeps had no doors........
Neither do mokes, n I still see a few cruising around with nothing being said. Go figure. Capital punishment for fun police I think.
it depends on the car..... (pre ADR)
Saying that early paj's had their plates in the side means its ok across the board.
So cos early jeeps had no doors does that mean its ok across the board?
Me thinks not.
Reyzor - ohhhh " I agree with Rey"
Over last few days I've been installing a stabalizer relocation bracket for the JK. DON'T do it using off the shelf products!
also
Has any one installed a set of drawers in the rear of their JK. I'm after a few ideas in preparation of our big trip next year>
Thanks
Following on from your first point of "Don't use off the shelf products" this applies to drawers too if you can find a JK specific design, If you want I can get you the details of the guy who built mine, everything is designed and made to fit like a glove, sturdy, no rattling and it's your own design to suit your own special needs to whatever space restrictions.
Attachment 1772Attachment 1773Attachment 1774
Hope this helps.
Hi Steve
Have just changed my iPhone and need to get the contacts off the old one.
Will bring his details to the Xmas party tomorrow.
I have seen other fitouts he's done and was very impressed at the quality and designs, the good thing is you design what you want and he builds it.
See you at Hornsby.
Hi Steve.
The name is Luke, the business name is Severs Creations located at 2/2 Apollo Street Warriewood.
His mobile is: 0406 997 959 and his Email: luke@severscreations.com.au
His website is still under construction.
If you need anything else just let me know.
Steve, there is a guy on AJOR selling a set of draws for a JKU for 350.00 or there abouts, they are home made but look well done and only up near Maitland. check em out , thread is Newcastle, Draws JKU. Cheers Doggy Dave..
Further on in my attempt to raise the stabilizer higher to improve clearance and minimise risk to the stabilizer.
After purchasing the Synergy relocation bracket (The only one I could find for RHD) and a Synergy relocation tie-rod clamp, I ran into a problem..... On full right lock, the relocation bracket hits the drag link. This is not a good thing!
After consulting (or rather arguing with the supplier and being told "we have fitted 100's of these and never a problem". I had to send them images like this to prove my point. The denial kept going...
I have three options:
1. return the item, which they were happy to accept though it would cost me about $50ish (freight to/from and restocking)
2. On-sell and recoup some cost.
3. modify the bracket somehow
Attachment 1781
Has any one come up with a solution on relocating their stabilzer on the JK? Please let me know
Steve
Synergy have a kit of parts to flip the drag link over the knuckle - this includes a version of the stabiliser bracket, but the drag link flip gets it up and out of the way of the stabiliser.
So - swap your existing bracket for this - http://www.doubleblackoffroad.com/Pr...Correction-Kit
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4118/5...d4bef4864e.jpg
Front left by SeeminglyAbsent, on Flickr
yep, do what geoff said...... it makes the car handle the bumps better too.....
Thanks Geoff & Rey. I'd like to take up your suggestion - looks like a good piece of hardware but I'm short on coin at the moment,
though...
Today I went all out with the grinder (what the heck, I can always return to stock) and shaved off 20mm off the edge which meant I needed to redrill the two holes further in. Luckily there is enough metal surround to adequately support the bolt through the stabilizer
I'm confident that this will fix my issue.
Steve
grinders fix everything
Hey Steve
Wolfe mentioned something about ordering club shirts at the end of the last meeting and then promptly dropping you in it.
Can you let me know the details.
Cheers,
Shefy.
Shefy
We ordered 25 shirts several months ago as it's the minimum run. I doubt we will run another for quite a while.
I do however, have some that have been paid for & not collected. We will let them have another month to collect else I 'll put them up for re-sale.
Not sure of sizes left but will repost them in January
Thanks, I thought that was what you said last time I asked you about it but when wolfe brought it up at the meeting I thought there's going to be a new run.
As we know the head lights of a JK are pretty ordinary so I was thinking (again I know) to replacing the standard head light with better globes while at the same time remaining "standard" ie same wattage and ADR approved.
I was able to get some Narva 120Plus globes pretty cheap. so I installed them today. Takes about 15 minutes including removal of grill etc
First un-clip right & left indicators under from guards.
Un-clip the six black plastic tabs on top of of grill, slowly by prying with flat screw driver. pull grill towards you and reach inside to force open the 5 metal tabs that secure the lower part of the grill.
Move grill to one side.
Unscrew the four t15 screws that secure the chrome surround. hold light and remove the two harness plugs in rear, the parker will just pull out while the main needs to side tabs squeezed. It's a bit tight but easy to do.
Remove rubber dust cover and un-clip existing globes. DO not touch the glass!
Install new globes (there is only one way to fit them) Again do not touch globes.
Reinstall rubber dust cover neatly and wiring harness. Screw in chrome ring and replace grill, re-install side indicators and test.
Easy upgrade that is totally in keeping with the jeep and easily reversible if needed
Money well spent I have those in the kj also
i bought a set of these from Supercheap on sale with matching blue parking lamp globes, i will put them in over the xmas break, interested to see how much better they are than the 50+ i have in now. Doggy Dave...
Dave for only $39.99 - it has to be better...... Funny they were actually cheaper than the 100+
Even though the JK has only 4500k and less than 4 months, I thought it best to get a wheel alignment done after having lifted it soon after birth and not having done an alignment yet.
She drives pretty well and handles acceptably well too but it tends to veer ever so slightly left but more annoyingly rather than drastically.
So off I went to Pro-axle in Enfield. What a great place that is properly equipped to handle all manner of 4wd and trucks PLUS very informative (even though they ribbed me about owning a Jeep, all in jest)
They informed me that the ball joints and tie rods were already showing movement. Surprising as it's only 4 months old, not much but enough to keep an eye on. They also fixed the toe-out back to slight toe-in and set the caster to 8. Seems it was set wrongly at the factory. Unfortunately the right camber is out with no adjustability (unless I get a offset ball joint, which I won't). This will only affect tyre wear, No biggy.
SO FAR, I highly recommend them as they seem to know what it's all about. I suggest you do the same.
Steve
Hey Steve,
I've also got a slight movement in the ball joints but it seems that it's another one of these "Jeep things". Everyone I've spoken to who knows 4WD's says there shouldn't be any but Jeep seem to allow up to about 1.5mm movement and still class it as "within spec". As you say, something to keep an eye on and if it gets worse then swap them out for some decent ones instead of the crappy stock ones.
You mention the caster is set to 8, which I assume is 8 degrees. Is that right or is it a typo? As far as I know caster should be between 4.5˚ & 5˚. If your's is at 8˚ it's a lot higher than spec. I'm happy to be proved wrong (only going from what I've heard elsewhere) but at that angle your drive shaft uni's might not have enough movement to allow the axle to drop as it flexes off road and/or the angle of the CV joint will max out on the transfer case end (or both).
Paul
Paul
Long time no hear. I hope you are well.
Yes 8 degrees which it has been all along apparently. The guy assured me that it comes from factory close to 8 and it should remain as such. Seems the only major thing was the toe, She runs pretty well. I would like to have installed a RTC damper but clearance may be an issue
Hi Steve,
Yes, it's been a busy few weeks between work, Xmas and family visiting. Seem like ages since I was out off road and haven't been on here much either. Did you have a good Xmas?
While I've not got any Chrysler specs, I've read loads of posts on other forums (AJOR, Jeepforum, project-jk) that all say that factory caster is about 4.2˚ and that after lifting you should aim to get it back to between 4.0˚ and 4.5˚. There are posts warning about going over 5˚ and people claiming they've broken front drive shafts with caster settings of about 6˚. Might be worth putting your's up with axle stands under the chassis rails to allow the axle to drop fully and see if the drive shaft still rotates easily......just in case. Better to find out on the driveway rather than in the middle of a rutted track. As I said before, I'm happy to be proved wrong as I'm certainly no mechanic but based on what others have said, and looking at mine (mine's only a 2.5" flexy spring lift with 4.5˚ caster and the drive shaft CV joint does have a lot of spare movement under full flex) I'd double check just in case.
Paul
I appreciate your points and will test out your theory about easy rotation etc. where did you read about issues over 5 degrees? I'd like to read up on that.
The caster was set by default by me on installation of the lift a week after I bought the JK, I had no idea what the caster was. I only extended the lower control arms about 15mm equally both sides. The aligner left the caster as is as I have had no problems with it's drivability.
You may be right in the future, but see what happens.
I'd be a little nervous with 8 degrees with the stock front driveshaft too...if you start to get any vibration from the front shaft at speed then you may need to back it down.
I'd also be curious about how they adjusted the caster, as there is minimal adjustment if you still have the non-adjustable stock arms...did they fit camber adjusting bushes/bolts?
I'd be a little nervous with 8 degrees with the stock front driveshaft too...if you start to get any vibration from the front shaft at speed then you may need to back it down.
I'd also be curious about how they adjusted the caster, as there is minimal adjustment if you still have the non-adjustable stock arms...did they fit camber adjusting bushes/bolts?
geoff
They did not adjust the caster. I ended up with that. I have synergy lower CA's. She runs smooth as silk with no vibrations (SO FAR). but I take your point.
They only needed to adjust Toe which was -20 to 0.
They mentioned my caber RH is too low and can not be fixed without adjustable ball joint.
I just rang them to better explain their "report" which was hard to read.
It looks like the caster is 7 for the left and 6.5 for the right. Not 8 as I said! (Now I'm not sure where I got 8 in my head!) must be dementia!
I hope that better explains it
I know when I tried extending my adjustable LCA's to solve a different issue it really tightened the steering up. It ran so smooth over bumps it was unreal but in doing that I'd pushed the caster up over 5˚ (and it didn't solve my other issue anyway) so in the end I had to wind it back a bit.
Over last few days. I had a longranger (near Newcastle) install a 68l aux tank to my 4 door with the pentastar. A first for the 3.6l. It involved changing exhaust and moving canaster as well, They did a real professional job. A pleasure to hand over the money. The staff were friendly and explained it all, even their work shop is clean and organised. I only wished other companies took a leaf from these guys.
I highly recommend them and would get the Jeep serviced there except they are a bit far away from my home.
BTW the Aux tank hangs exactly same height as the stock. I also got the H/D base for extra protection. Gives me 153l capacity, which is good for travelling the outback, which I'm doing in Aug 13. It should equate to well over 1000k cruising and atleast 700k of hard offroad
Haven't done much since install of the AUX tank back in January
I did manage to sell the last few WJ parts and accessories to help cure my addiction.
Installed an AEV snorkel to fit with the new 3.6. A good piece of kit and nice fit though pricey.(besides no other options)
Installed a cheap pair of D/lights. A bit better than stock headlights
Installed a 2nd battery (Optima) in the cargo area controlled by a projecta isolator under the hood, to run the fridge or what ever
also installed set of switches that are handy and easy to use.
Attachment 2165Attachment 2163Attachment 2162
Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd post up here
Today we (the wife and I) started our 3 week trip to SA via Birdsville and lake Eyre etc etc.
With the intention of taking it pretty easy our first stop over is Dubbo in a nice hotel close to the centre of town. But amazingly it took us just under 6 hours with a short stop in Lithgow for lunch ( I say short by country folk standard.
I think the first part will be the hardest as the roads are shocking in some parts with plenty of climbing and twists which I don;t think suite the auto that comes with the JK. Just seems not suited or matched as it often goes to 2nd to keep up the speed but over all the JK did a good job and does overtake easily, so far on the black top. averaging around 12-12.5 which I think is good for getting over the blue mountains, It should improve once it flattens out a bit.
Next stop is Cobar after a short visit to Dubbo Zoo as we have free passes.