Wheelin @ Wheeny creek - JK vs TJ
Going UP! - in JKS Acos style + New RE Springs
Hi Guyz
Just thought I would post up a little How to;
Install Rear JKS Acos adjustable height spring spacers and front rubber spring spacers and new heavy duty springs
I drive a 2dr JK and pack a lot stuff into it, the 4inch lift springs that I installed over 2yrs ago have sagged to possibly less lift than a std 2" lift - Im sure it had nothing to do with my Mack truck bull bar & winch or the 200kg of equipment, drawers, bars,rooftop tent I often drive around with LoL
I have been playing around with my springs now for nearly 6 months,
I have tried various Heavy duty & std duty springs and have decided that the Rubicon Express 4" springs suit me and my driving style pretty well!
I bought some spring compressors to make the job easier and have used them several times now on my Jeep and also several times on friends rigs whilst out on the trails wheelin to repair / replace adventurous springs LoL I don't enjoy using them - I find them spring compressors a PITA - however they do make the job possible just parked in a driveway (not on a hoist)
I do all my work myself and usually I do it in my driveway (as I dont have a garage or hoist) - so this write up assumes you don't have access to a hoist either.
Because I find the spring compressors to be a PITA I decided this time to try and change the springs without using them! (Famous last words) so I swallowed another fistful of sm@rt@ss pills and began by placing my JEEP IN LOW 4 IST GEAR and chocking the wheels,
I always take off my doors when jacking with my high lift jack just in case the jack slips, as I don't want to scratch or ding my doors.
I decided to change the passenger side first as from experience I knew that its the easiest side.
Firstly I disconnected the front and rear sway bar then I unbolted the rear lower shock bolts and free'd up some more slack in all the brake lines- this gave me the ability to jack up my Jeep so far that the springs could just fall out - and thankfully fall out they did, thus saving me the PITA spring compressors! YAY!
I drilled several holes into the rear top spring mounts to bolt the Acos spacers into, bolted them up and installed my new springs.
Then I went to the front and carefully slid the rubber spring spacers up the bump stop shaft and installed my new springs.
Jacked my Jeep back down and adjusted my rear track bar to centre the body over the wheels.
I am very happy with the result, my Jeep looks a little tougher now LoL - I will post up early next week to report how it drives both on road and Off road wheelin.
Things to keep in mind;
Jacking safety - don't get under your Jeep unless you have solid jack stands.
When Jacking it up to crazy height, as I did to ensure the springs just fell out, continuously check to ensure you don't stretch or damage your ABS wiring!
When drilling holes for the Acos spring spacers be careful!!!! - there are wires running over the top of the rear spring mounts which you could easily drill into!
When setting the ACOS spring spacers remember the drivers side is where you sit and also is the same side the fuel tank is on - so I gave a little more lift on the DS.
The whole task took me 2.5 hours - you could do it heaps faster if A. you have a friend help you and B. you don't stuff around scratching you noodle LoL
Enjoy
Cheers Hunty
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Does my @ss look big in this bar?
I finally got a decent rear bar, thanx heaps to Wooders for the great advice and awesome deal!
Why wooder you shop anywhere else!
I got to keep my factory tow bar as well.
It is pre drilled and threaded for a tyre carrier and best of all IT IS TOUGH!
I love the shape and the hummer looking tow points
It is extremely well manufactured and perfectly finished!
Cheers Hunty
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JK Fender gold plated clips
Hi Guyz
I have been slowly over the past 3 years beating up on my plastic fantastic fenders, almost everytime I go wheelin I rip & crunch & brake those little clips that hold em on.
My drivers side rear fender has been just hanging on with 3 or 4 out of 15 clips now for over a year and on the weekend I let my "L" Plater son do some of the wheelin and between him & I we finally tore it totally off.
I went to buy some of these little clips from my local Chrysler blokes and too my (and the spare parts guyz) utter dismay discovered that the list price on these little plastic clips is $11.78ea - I asked for 20 of them (before he figured out the price) as I wanted to replace all of them on the drivers rear and have a few spares that I could keep in my trail repair kit. Do the math for 20 clips;
$235.60c - There is now way in hell that I will pay that for what amounts to a simple bumper clip.
I walked across the road to Pacific spares (like repco) and asked if they stocked bumper clips - they did and I bought 18 for $4.75 tot saving = $230.85
I simply clipped them into my fender - had to do a bit of Mcgyvering lol - which amounted to placing a small piece of gaffa / 100mph tape to hold them exactly in place as I reinstalled the fender, I realise that so many of you could figure out far better ways to reinstall the fender but I am lazy and needed my heap back on the road ASAP as its my daily drive. it took me less than 2 min to bodge them back on and only $4.75 they feel like they are on solidly and have survived some pretty full on wheelin already - I hope this bodggy is useful Jeepers!
cheers Hunty
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Must watch vid for Dana30 JKers & How to replace uni
Hi Guyz
I was out wheeling last weekend in the Watto's, B+ grade trails in low range 1st, scrambling up a fairly steep hill and heard a very soft metallic sounding tick / crack,
so I immediately switched off the engine and did some investigating, pulled & pushed just about everything - nothing found, so I decided to drive on carefully and get off the trails and go home!
Returned to 2wd and the faint clicking went away, OK that tells me the problem is in the front end, so I upon investigation i discovered some damage to the drivers front UNI joint, so before I fixed it I gaffed my iphone4 to my bull bar and made the video below, Hopefully if you watch the vid and commit the sound to memory when you hear it on your Jeep (and you will eventually - its not if - its when) you will be able to quickly recognise it and switch to 2wd before you damage the uni ears, my repair cost me a uni joint and my time. I have seen several other JK'ers ignore the warning signs and then have to replace hubs & axels - a lot more expensive than a Uni Joint.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mV7cH6aDxto
Heres how I replaced my front uni
Take 1
Started with a handful of smart@ss pills and decided that I could change it without removing the front wheel, disc brakes or hub, see pix below. Those of you with an ounce of mechanical expertise or have replaced a JK uni before - feel free to start laughing Now. Anyway 3 hours later 2 broken screwdrivers and a broken jimmy bar all I had managed to do was to remove the circlips!
Take 2 LoL
1. Jack up Jeep, chock wheels, insert jackstand, take off front wheel and slide it under the jeep as extra safety should the jack stand fail
2. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the brake callipers, remove callipers and secure them out of the way.
3. Remove the 3 unusually shaped bolts that secure the hub to the Knuckle
4. Very carefully remove the hex head bolt that secures the ABS / TC/ ESP sensor - its plastic so be very careful and unclip it from the 2 guides and secure it in a safe place.
5. Carefully pry off the hub from the knuckle and slide out the hub, uni and axel.
6. Optional - I removed the drag link to give me better access - probably wasted my time - D'oh - still feeling dumb from my first attempt LoL
7 Place in a vice or similar and remove all 4 circlips then wearing suitable eye protection get an old useless socket and place it on the end cap of any of the unijoint end caps and beat on it neanderthal style hard until you pop the opposite end cap out. repeat 3 more times until all 4 end caps have been whacked out!
8. inspect all 4 ears for wear / damage and in my case burs - lightly sand with fine paper to clean out any surface blemishes and lubricate with a few drops of oil
9 unpack new uni joint and extremely carefully remove all 4 end caps DO NOT DISTURB the needle bearings! . place the uni joint into the axel end first and insert 1st endocarp - gently tap it in place with a hammer - install the next end cap bearing - invert and gently tap in opposite end end cap bearing. I tried to use a G clamp - dumb idea - my mechanic told me just to tap them in gently and in the end that worked out to be the best solution.
10. install circlips - word of caution my circlips were to fat to insert so I put them on a diet (thicknesser) and reduced them to half their original thickness before inserting.
11. repeat process above for hub
12. reassemble - basically steps 1 to 5 in reverse LoL
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Front drive shaft replacement
Funny Story; well I wore out a front drivers side UNI (see my dumb@ss yet successful attemp to repair - earlier post) and after I replaced it I went out for a test drive on the grass field behind my office, as I was "testing" aka performing the technical manoeuvre know as grass D'ohnuts when I heard a new noise - sounded like a dead / dying CV. sure enough I had just killed my front driveshaft CV at the transfer case.
After much research I decided to replace my factory shaft with a Double Cardan from Wooders Garage, much stronger and should last more Km's.
Thankfully the old shaft gave me plenty of notice! - infact I went wheelin several times with it complaining whilst I waited for the replacement to arrive.
Replacing the front shaft is a pretty easy / straight forward job.
To make the repair you will need;
1 x small socket to remove the million little bolts that hold the CV to the transfercase adapter
1 x Large Socket to remove the M22 nut in the centre of the flange / adapter see pic
My 2 cents / hopefully helpful advice.
Firstly you will need to remove the bash plate, I did this repair as I do everything, (without a hoist in the driveway) I removed 3 of the 4 bolts that hold it in place then grabed a handful of smart@ss pills, and just loosened the 4th bolt enough to swivel the bash plate out of the way - I did this because I did not want to have to lift it back in place.
Disconnect / Drop the front driveshaft uni first by removing the 4 bolts then put your transfer case in neutral - this will allow you to remove one of the millions of little bolts before you rotate the shaft to remove the next little bolt and so on until they are all out
When removing the centre nut from the adapter flange put the transfer case back into 4L so you can swing on it to loosen it and get it off.
When swapping out flanges be sure to carefully remove the fat little rubber Oring / seal and carefully install it into your new flange - As a total dumb@ss I missed this important step , and as I was packing away all my tools and feeling well pleased with my efforts I noticed the "stupid" little Oring was still embedded in my old flange D'oh, so back on the jack stands, remove the bash plate remove front uni.........blah blah blah....... dumb@ss LoL
If you have any mechanical aptitude you should be able to do the job in around 90min's (unlike me who took a little bit longer, ok a lot longer - LoL)
Cheers Hunty
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Ipad - yet another location on test
DBoR AeroForce Gauge is Awesome
Ive been using my aeroforce gauge now for 6 months and am very happy with it
The Aeroforce gauge can be setup to show two things at once or cycle through as many as you like - I mainly use it to monitor battery voltage and water temperature on road and for off road I have it cycling through a bunch more;
When im in the slop I select water temperature and steering angle
water temp so I can see if i have clogged up the radiator with mud as the std JK gauge will show "12oclock" all is well for any temperature between 85 and 112 degrees C
and steering angle so i know when I have the wheels pointing straight as those of you who wheel in the mud will know - sometimes you can have the wheel 1 complete turn from straight and have almost NO idea!
When winching I use the aeroforce gauge to bump up the idle - you can input what ever RPM you want - I usually input 1850 which is a apparently the rpm needed to get maximum output from the alternator.
You can program your Jeep for different gears and different tyre size to correct you car computer and speedo readings.
Reading and clearing DTC - fault codes
Another awesome feature is - the aeroforce gauge has 2 annalog inputs that you can connect whatever you want to - I am planning to install a long range fuel tank and will connect the sender up to the 1st of the 2 annalog inputs - i have done some research and have determined that the gauge will display anything - 0 - 5v. - I may have to consult with the guru's Mightymouse and Nemesis but I feel positive that I will be able to make it work eventually.
it is brilliant, I still have my scan gauge but now it lives in my tool box and comes out only when I want to assist my friends in diagnosing their Heaps.
There are 2 super bright Led's that can be configured to light up in any condition or combination of conditions - I have mine set to light up on high temperature (over 100 degrees C) and / or high RPM.
If you want one contact the guys at Double Black off Road DBoR and they will take good care of you.
Cheers Hunty
http://www.doubleblackoffroad.com/main.php
cheers Hunty
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ps
last pic shows ipad in its old location
pss LoL - The anti swear / bad language filter / feature of this website will not let me refer to the non digital inputs by their correct name - lmao - i guess it thinks that im calling someone a bad name - easy fix - I just spelt it with 2xN's
Warning to JKers re Disco's & Hunty's Darwin Award
Of all the Dumb@ss things I have done to 4x4's over the years this mod is my most embarrassing and most shockingly dangerous ergo the WARNING;
Do NOT install disconnects as per the following pictures as you run the serious risk of entering yourself for your very own Darwin Award!
When new the lower section of the fixed part of the (Dumb@ss) disconnect will remain vertical when disconnected, however as the wheelin miles start to add up it will get progressively looser until it will fall forward under braking and totally block your steering!!! - God help you if you are on the black stuff @ 80kph heading to the servo to air up when it it falls forward!
Solution - JKS disconnects, I got mine from "Wooders" for less than I could get them off EBay USA
Install tip - when tightening the centre lock nut wedge something (I used my little shifter) between the bottom disco and the Jeep to ensure it stays nicely in line with the top.
Cheers Hunty
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Who has the best guard / flare tyre coverage system?
I use the bush ranger stick on flare you can get it from most 4x4 suppliers - i notice arb now sell it to
heres why i say its good on a JK;
1. I needed extra coverage to be legal and it does that.
2. When I first did it there was little else available for a jk.
3. Some of the awesome new products available for the JK arnt LoL - ive got mates who have dropped big bux on "Awesome new products" and have broken them on the first occasion they slide into a high sidded rut
4. I have squashed crunched slid on rubbed and bangged my flares so many times I cant count - there still there
5. my heap looks mild not wild with the factory flares and rubber ext and i like that because it doesnt scream out to the boyz in blue look how high im lifted!
6. its cheap!
7. Im waiting to see what will be the best aftermarket alternative and then Ill buy that - and im still waiting
cheers Hunty
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Water Crossing - adding a MSA car bra
Hi Guyz
I am preping my Jeep for multiple water crossings (Cape Trip soon) and have appreciated everyones advice re deep water and the unsealed JK fan, and today at the 4x4 show Eastern creek I grabbed a bargain - actually it was a present from my beautiful wife - a MSA car bra.
My 2c
1. What a well designed and well manufactured product.
2. Great material - thick, strong and supple.
3. Great shape - corners folded around perfectly.
4. Plenty of attachment options inc quick release buckles.
5. Loads of Elastic and bungy cords to really customise the final fit.
6. Handy pocket in the front to store your wed muddy snatch strap.
7. Strategically sewn in water release fly's to allow quick drainage when you get out of the water.
and to think that I was just going to buy a $20 blue tarp! - the MSA Bra is a superbly designed high quality product that I am sure I will use for years and years, a great man once said ("Molly") do yourself a favour and get 1.
cheers Hunty
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Remote control camping lights & Inverter upgrade.
I just bought a 4 channel remote switch from Ebay (China)
pretty cool piece of kit for $13.00
2 remote fobs with 4 buttons ea
1 Master control unit
The Master control unit contains 4 relays NC, NO & C
It can be programmed as momentary, self lock, and latch
I programmed mine = 1 push on - 1 push off. I think that is latch mode?
I used channel 1 for my Jeep rear storage area - where the seats used to be
Channel 2 draws light
Channel 3 Roof top tent
Channel 4 lighting under my roll out awning
I also upgraded my 1500w / 3000w inverter to a 2500w / 5000w and my second batteryfrom 40amps to 105amps, i added a charger so I can top up at caravan parks etc and a volt meter to keep an eye on the state of charge etc.
Lastly I added some really bright led lights , I still need to paint them black
but WoW they are super bright!
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Jeep JK 2 dr Water storage solution
More prep for the Sydney Jeep Club trip to the Cape.
My Jeep JK will have 2 occupants - Jax (My beautiful wife) and myself!
I need to carry at least 20L of reserve water for cooking and drinking etc aside from my main 20L of drinking water and the 2X 1.5L bottles in the front of the cab to drink on route.
I am looking for advice / comment re my plans to put 25L on the roof bars
My Plan so far is to put 3meters of 100mm pipe (+ threaded end cap) up on my roof bars with a locking tap on the back end and a manually openable valve at the top on the front (to let the air out when I fill up) I expect to get approx 25 Litres of storage.
I realise I am adding another 25+Kg's to the top of my Jeep and that when the tank is half full I will have 12+kgs of "slide Hammer" LoL
Q. Has anyone got any recommendations / cautions / advice before I fab up some brackets & weld em on?
Thanx guys in advance for any info / advice you might give!
cheers Hunty
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Death Wobble - burn in steel
In prep for the soon (yes I'm getting excited) trip to the Cape I decided that I needed to sure up the JK Achilles heel ........ the front track bar mounts LoL
I don't want to be tightening up my trackbar / panhard bolts every 500km (my interval guess based on the corrugations in the OTR) so I have;
1. Changed the stupid Chrysler threaded bolts for slightly larger shanked 9/16th bolts - the threaded chrysler bolts have a tendency to file away at the holes until they get sloppy and ultimately Death wobble will ensue.
2. Cut out some 8mm thick plates from Stainless steel and drilled them with a hole exactly 9/16th...... welded them on both sides of the 2 mounts and then spent way too long trying to get the bolts and track bar back on my Jeep . hammering, bashing and much swearing LoL
My front end is now tighter than ......... hmmm..... its ever been. LoL
Cheers Hunty
ps
I still need to deal with my stupid steering damper.
I used stainless steel in the hope that it will not easily get flogged out and I assume that the high tensile bolts will wear before the stainless steel plates wear! - they should be easier to replace.
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JK won't start - how to replace the starter & solenoid
I've drowned my Jeep many times in slop, mud, rivers and the Jardine,
its been around OZ twice and crossed the centre both ways.
I drove onto the Wisemans ferry and turned off my Jeep - got to the other side and tried to restart it, not even an audible click D'oh cars piled up behind me full ferry and cues 2 hrs long to cross...... PITA, foolishly I opened the drives door and gave a big fred flintstone push, thankfully it was just enough to roll start and I got to drive off the ferry very relieved to not be blocking hours of post holiday traffic.
I got home and decided to fault find the problem
1. Crawled under with a large screw driver and shorted out the two +12v poles on the solenoid and it started perfectly (had it in low range Neutral to inhibit the clutch lock out).
2. being a Jeep magyvering genius I decided the solenoid was stuffed.
3. went to jeep and asked how much for a new solenoid and was told $385bux - ouch! ebay says less than $100.
4. I decided to buy a generic solenoid and mount it higher up near the battery out of harms way - hopefully above the high water mark LoL
5. Just for laughs I asked the Jeep parts parts guy "how much for the starter and solenoid combined and too my amazement he said $210 - which is less than just the solenoid WTFudge????
5. Bought a new starter solenoid combo and installed it
6. Very easy job - firstly disconnect the battery!
there are only 2 bolts holding the starter to the block and they are pretty easy to get to if you have a socket set with wobbly / uni joint. unplug the solenoid and bolt off the 12+ cable.
7. Excited I jumped out from under my Jeep - reconnected the battery and jumped in turned the key and NOTHING.
8. Too many smartass piles consumed - I failed to check all the simple things first and learnt a humbling lesson D'oh - I also did not expect the solenoid to be fed through a fuse or it to be blown.... blah blah blah sucked in to me! hopefully this little write up will save you :)
9. went to my local speed shop and bought 2x 40A fuses installed on and put a spare in my tool kit.
10. Starts very well now :) and I have a perfectly good starter motor in my garage LoL
Enjoy peeps - cheers Hunty
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Jeep JK Air bag suspension
Ive been playing with this for a couple of years now and finally made a vid
Springs have given me the ships for years - to hard to soft to tall to low - squashed with load.......... Cops see you up too high and Whammy go to low and get stuck at the Mall LoL
I installed some second hand air bags and made my own controller system with manual valves - couldn't afford a proper system at first, then eventually I bought the air ride controller with 4 individual height sensors - proper build pix to follow soon - and the iPhone app
It has been fantastic - i am able to drop down onto the bump stops at will and make it into a 1.8m carpark I can crank it up for stump jumping LoL
Best of all is the ability to;
1. drop the front for climbing steep hills
2. drop the rear for descending steep hills
3. drop either side depending on which way the pucker factor is LoL
4. drop down under trailers -hook em on and picked up
5.ability to raise the front and drop the rear when towing a car trailer and put the rear of the car trailer up very high to reverse into steep driveway
6. raise the rear to max and drop the front to put the rear of a car trailer on the ground - no ramps required
drive around the city looking somewhat normal
I DO NOT recommend any JKers doing this - I luv it but i have invested 100's of hours
Cheers Hunty
ps here are another 7 reasons I luv em
1. Smooth quiet ride
2. I let a little bit of air out on the freeway and get a magic carpet ride.
3. Smoothest JK I have ever been in
4. when I get into 2.1m or lower carparks and park - if there is room I raise it up to full height and then disable the system - good luck theives getting it out of the Carpark LoL.
5. I also put it up to full height sometimes when i park in questionable areas - its so high thieves can't look in the windows LoL
6. when I'm parked at the lights and a big cruiser or pootrol pulls up next to me and looks down like "ha ha little Jeep - I wait till they turn their head and hit full up - when they look back they are like WTF as i look down on them LoL
7. When I need to work under the Jeep - Happy days - full up
http://youtu.be/CDAdNi3uCtU
Jeep JK Airbag Suspension - does it Ramp?