well done Hunty. It takes a lot of patience plus trial and error to sometimes work these out.
Have you tried rockauto.com ?
Printable View
well done Hunty. It takes a lot of patience plus trial and error to sometimes work these out.
Have you tried rockauto.com ?
Check with Sandy @ thapa1978 on AJOR..... He is on here @ JK1978.... He was wrecking a JK and still has a few parts left over
"Hey Guyz
If anyone knows somebody with a wrecked 07 petrol JK in their back yard and would be happy to loan the Fuse box / TIPM to me for a while I will fix my TIPM and post up what relay to buy and where to get it :)
Enjoy Jeepin
Cheers Hunty"
Of any use?
http://www.all4wdspares.com/index.ph...ow-dismantling
Happy hunting Hunty - and that wasn't even deliberate!
Dave
Very surgical Hunty. Awesome job, you should open up a Jeep Repairs I reckon. .
I've suggested just adding a rollover/impact cut off switch....that way if the tipm does cut out in a more remote area, then at least the motor will still work.
I just bought one of these off ebay
Its out of a Ford Mustang and should activate upside down and at 8gs or above which equates to about a 60kph crash in a jeep (I think)
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v....jpeg:original
Hey PeEpS
Cruise control not working?
Airbag light and chime driving you crazy?
You most likely have a worn / broken clock spring!
Step 1
Buy a new CS from Amazon, Ebay or wherever. I got mine from Amazon for fraction of Jeep AU price.
Step 2
Straighten the steering wheel.
Disconnect the battery, I did because I absolutely did not want to accidentally set off the airbag - didnt fancy a screwdriver in my forehead, some may say it would be an improvement LoL
The only tools you will need are
a long T20 torx driver,
philips head screw driver
bend yourself a special flat blade screw driver
Socket, ext and driver - to loosen the nut behind the wheel - Not the Jeep enthusiast LoL
Step 3
Remove the plastic panels around the steering column by removing the 3x T20 screws (underneath the wheel, 1 is silver and visible and 2 black ones are hidden)
Step 4
Remove the Horn button / Drivers airbag
by using the bent screwdriver to gently pry / lever off the cast steering wheel hub 3x U shaped spring clips (they remain attached to the Airbag / Horn - when you spring the 3rd one be ready to catch the Airbag / horn and unplug it.
Step 5
Disconnect the white plug at TDC and remove the centre bolt that holds the steering wheel. Pull the wheel off - I didnt use a puller (some say I have expert pulling skills) just a big grunt LoL
Step 6
Remove the blinker stalk by removing 1x Philips head screw (on the left side) and unplug it.
Step 7
Remove the Headlight stalk, 1 x Philips screw (on the right side) and unplug.
Step 8
Remove all the plugs from the old CS.
Step 9
Remove the 2 silver torx behind the old CS and 1 silver torx screw near the IGnition Key Hole and gently pull off the old Clock Spring.
Step 10
Replace CS with new one - leave the yellow CS lock in place until you have put the steering wheel back on and tightened the centre bolt.
I hope you guys find this useful and it saves you some cash
cheers Hunty
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...0.jpg~original
Had a blast on the weekend wheelin with Greg @ Forster - plenty of awesome trails in the forests - definitely need to organise a SJC weekend camping trip to the mid north coast
I will post up some vids soon of the awesome wheelin
check out the pic below and wish you were there :) LoL
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...6.jpg~original
That is an awesome jeep Hunty, btw good to meet you at the club meeting last wednesday.
Regards
Kev
I like the photo (and the weekend) Hunty, but I should add that the photo was taken from my tinnie, not the Jeep. :smile-new:
I still can't delete my own posts - help anyone :)
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Hunty! Remember this??
Attachment 2331Attachment 2336Attachment 2335Attachment 2332Attachment 2333
Always the JEEP NUT!!
This is where it all began for me
My Love for all things Jeep - 2000TJ
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Then there was the "JK" complete with non matching antennae and factory issue park bench
Snapped this photo whilst covering the fires in Vic
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Round 1 Wheels, tyres 35's and 3' Lift
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Put the hard top into storage don't plan to use it again but am keeping just in case I change my mind or get an inner city apartment with non secure parking.
Changed my bull bars mounting arrangement and gained a few more inches of frontal clearance - set the bar behind the sub frame mounts as opposed to in front of them.
Bought some bar doors from Wooders - they give an excellent view of the trails while wheelin - some of the best money I have ever spent on my heap!
Grabbed a bikini top of ebay $50 keep my cr@p white boy skin from melting! lol
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...tyjkbikini.jpg
Sway bar disconnects, front shock relocation brackets to stop the shocks rubbing at full flex and reinforced the front axel C's - my heap looks like I had the front axel pressed to gain more negative camber - it seems to have stopped bending now!
Jammed 4 cans of coopers (I can't beleive its not beer lol) fake beer under my heap to prove that it is actually lifted! lol - still looks too low to me.
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I trawled the net to find a good place to mount my ARB Compressor and I have seen some really creative uses of space including under the bonnet, in behind the rear tail light, under the floor near the fuel pump and under the drivers or passenger seat, I am quite surprised just how HOT the pump gets - I would say the heat was extreme - I certainly cannot touch the pump after only filling 1x 33' mtz from 12 - 32psi - given this crazy amount of heat the ARB pump generates I rulled out under the bonnet and in behind the rear tail light and perhaps even under the seats! - plus the real-estate inside my 2dr is very expensive and i do not wish to use the under seat area for a compressor plus I would worry about the heat that would build up and maybe cause a fire!
So after much searching I decided to use the space inside my spare tyre!
here's the write up I did.
1. - install 40amp auto circuit breaker close to the battery
2. - remove spare wheel
3. - run cables in behind rear door trim
4. - install 40amp relay in behind 3rd brake light
5. - install on off switch
6. - Mount compressor
7. - Connect all wires and reinstall spare wheel
Enjoy using your compressor with lots of natural airflow!
Cheers Hunty
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Who could believ 1 little red switch could bring such pleasure - I di dthe crazynuts mod
A long long time ago (sep 09) I was wheelin on Fraser island in high 2 running along at 80kmh the legal speed limit on the island - I was driving with some Toymota's & Missuns -and went over a gentle little sand mound -the car lunged a little and then the stupid Jeep JK took some of my accelerator and then started to apply the brakes - 20sec latter I was in 1st gear trying to build up some momentum again this happened repeatedly and seriously pissed me off - so I tried 4x4 high same thing happened - so I tried holding the esp button for 7 sec to try and disable the annoying stop and go slow bloody useless @$#%#@& JK computer - this worked well untill i hit 40kmh and the @#$%$#@ thing cut back in and continued to piss me off!!! so I tried 4x4 low range with the 7sec esp button application and I was away again following my mates - im now driving @ 75kmh in low range 6th - great!!! the tacho was in the 3000 - 4000 range - so what I thought - well 10 min latter I looked at the fuel gauge and I swear i could see it moving - so I interigated the l/100 and discovered to my pain that the normal 10 - 13.5l/100 I normally get was steadily climbing and after only 10min @ 75 in low 4x4 6th the gauge read 18.5 - ouch!!!! so wtf was i to do - fuel is about $2.00 litre on Fraser!
The next time i was on Sand - i was on stockton beach - i needed to snatch a friend in his disco - heres what happened - I connected the strap backed up to his bumper and hit it hard - the disabled disco (poor useless v8 had died from heat exhaustion) was instantly plucked out so i decided to try and pull him off the beach and back to the road - so as not to incur a huge towing charge to recover his vehicle - well you guessed it first sign of wheel spin and I got brakes and throttle cut - thanx very little Jeep JK!!!!!!!!!
last but not least I was driving up to the freeway from gosford (winding uphill road) and some fool in a gas barby powered nissun overtakes me - so given my aussie red blood and stubborn jeep pride I decided he was not going to just pass me in 1 of the corners so I booted it and you guessed it - the yellow light of death flashed a few times on the dash & the stupid jeep jk computer was getting scared - i think the g force calculator / sensor $4!t$ itself above 50kmh - anyway as i watched the nissans rear end disappear i could only think of what could have been if the @#$#@# thing would just $#@#$ off!! and let ME DRIVE MY CAR!!!!!!!!!! - (ok - im calming down now)
alright let me get to the point
I fitted a red light / switch to my dash and wired it up according the Great "Crazy nuts" post on how to deal with the esp bas erm & abs - and now i am sooooooo happy
thankyou "Crazy nuts" you are awesome!!!!!!!!!!
I can now wheel as hard as I like and if I choose to - I can stop the JK's computers messing with my ride!
cheers Hunty
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...K/redlight.jpg
I finally got around to installing my CB (cut the cables ties that were holding it onto the top of the dash LoL)
I have looked and looked for a CB with a remote control on the Mic that I could bury behind the dash but alas I could not find 1 that would do both the old 27Meg & UHF - I really get a lot of valuable highway information from the truckers country folk that still use 27Meg - so I decided to see if I could cut my Uniden 95sx dual band (UHF & 27meg) into the top of the panel.
Step 1 Mark it out carefully - LoL
Step 2 Remove the top by prying of the top plastic cover - rear first!
Step 3 Remove - unplug the Compass / direction sensor
Step 4 Using a sharp knife carefully cut out the top of the stereo
Step 5 Same Knife - cut the plastic top
Step 6 Test fit
Step 7 reconnect compass / direction sensor
Enjoy
cheers Hunty
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I wanted to add some switches to control;
Winch master power
Rear work Light
Arb Compressor
Front Spotlights
Map Lights
Fridge
CB GPS etc
I decided to install the daystar 4 rocker switch panel but I still wanted more switches - so on a recent SJC trip to the watagans I saw inside the trip leaders JK and noticed he had a nice commercial box installed above his mirror - that gave ma an idea - so (I'm guessing for a fraction of the cost)
I bought a second Daystar panel ($40 off Ebay USA including the switches fitted) and cut it down to fit the space above my mirror
Step 1 - Carefully measure the top panel and cut out a hole to install the daystar
Step 2 - cut down the daystar panel - as per pic
Step 3 - Test fit
Step 4 - Complete the wiring
Enjoy - Cheers Hunty
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ps - I have since burried the cb in the top panel.
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...K/DSC_3075.jpg
I finally decided to give my JK some cool clean air to breath so I jumped onto Ebay and bought the "direct4x4accessories" fed through the top of the bonnet edition - delivered for under $300 plus they gave me a free tactical police style led torch!
I was very nervous about cutting into my beautiful JK body to install this so I applied the old adage "measure twice & cut once" - even still I was $hitting myself when I began to drill.
The instructions that came were very good! so I will just add my 2cents and hopefully anybody who reads this will benefit a little bit from my stress LoL
I held the Snorkel in place against my Jeep just to see how it looked and to discover if my light bar would get in the way - and I soon realised not only it would get in the way but also my Mirror relocation brackets would also!
So the mirror relocation brackets are up for sale $50 and there yours - (just pm me).
I started early this morning and the bonnet was still a little wet - which was good because when I laid the supplied template on the bonnet it immediately stuck!
The instructions said to lay it (the template) 19mm from the indent made for the hood latch - but I (stupidly) did not trust this - so I went to great lengths to move the template around until I thought it was in the perfect position wasted about 30min doing this and after I had finally placed it where I thought it looked best - i measured it to see how far different I had it compared to the instructions and %uck me it was exactly 19mm from the latch LoL LoL.
I then got my pocket knife and traced out the template pushing just hard enough to scratch my Jeeps bonnet - see picture - I also centre punched the jeep for the hole saw!
Next I cut the holes - and yes people I know I used a wood hole saw D'oh! its all I had!
I went to bunnings and bought an angle grinder and very thin cutting disc - both on special cost less than $20 for both!
Tip 1 I removed the bonnet insulation so I could see what I was cutting into - it was quite easy - just carefully prise off the 3 stupid plastic christmas tree type fasteners.
TIP 2 when cutting with the angle grinder the steel of the bonnet will get very hot so I chose to cut with the garden hose running water onto the bonnet to keep it cool and prevent the paint from melting! - which I can assure you will if you don't keep it cool and then there will be tears LoL
I assembled the snorkel and attached all the mounting hardware - sealed it all with heaps of black silicon type stuff - also from bunnings
Lastly I riveted the supplied trim to the bonnet to finish off the job
Best of all - I have been driving around Sydney this morning for work and
I noticed on my scan gauge that the air temperature flowing into my engine was around 29 degrees C - the abient temp in Sydney at the time was 26C - which got me a barred up because I normally observe the air temp going into my engine any where from double the ambient to 86 - 90 degrees C !!!!!!!!!!!!
So if any of you have any smarts when it comes to the fuel efficiency of colder more dense air - I would certainly like to know if I can expect better performance and or better economy? now my engine is sucking down air thats at least 50C cooler
Lastly as you can see from the pix I need to make up 2 little black spacers for the windscreen pillar mount to keep the snorkel of my light bar - I just used 2 packets of washers this morning - so technically its still a work in progress!
Cheers Hunty
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I threw a big end bearing 9,000km's ago and Jeep rebuilt my engine under warranty - I suspected it was an oil pressure / feed prob but the guys at Jeep service didnt - so less than 1000km's later threw another big end bearing - thankfully Jeep gave me another short motor and this time fixed the oil problem! under warranty !!!!!!!
So I decided at the very least I should keep an eye on the oil pressure!
1. spent too long looking around under the JK bonnet for the sender.
2. Gave up because;
a) - didnt want to disconnect the factory sender. - do want to get any factory alarms
b) - didnt want to put a Tpiece on the factory sender - wouldnt fit either.
3. looked on ebay for a sandwich plate adapter $20
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...ilplatejpg.jpg
4. simple install - just remove the oil filter and screw the adapter in
5. connect up gauge in cab! - too easy LoL
Added bonus - the sandwich plate adapter has 2 spare connectors - so in future if i wish i can add another oil cooler!
enjoy
cheers Hunty
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Hey all
as those of you with JK's know all to well , Satans sauna resides under most of our bonnets!
Whilst I was installing my snorkel the sleeve of my T-shirt got caught on one of the little clips that holds the radiator over flow pipe and with virtually no force at all it snapped off!
Upon investigation I discovered that the plastic is extremely brittle - and I put that down to the fact that it is @#$%'n hot under there!
Solution
$1.00 bonnet scoop (Ebay of course) + postage :(
As some of you already know I installed my snorkel and after you have made one giant hole in the bonnet a second smaller one isn't that scary! LoL - ok yes it is - I think I will always $hit myself when I attack my beautiful Jeep with an angle grinder
1. Mark out a suitable area - I decided that just behind the bonnet re in-forcing - ie between the strap attachment point and the windscreen water jet would be overall the best place - I certainly was not going to cut into the bonnet sub frame!
2. Using a very thin disc cut out the desired area - be very carefull when cutting with a disc as the heat build up will melt your bonnet paint - i ran a hose on the bonnet whilst I cut to dissipate the heat
3. Good luck trying to find the centre of the bonnet - I guessed it with my eye - it looked wrong - I measured it with a tape - still looked wrong - I think its because the rubber windscreen stoppers are not exactly in the centre of the water jet or?????
anyway I just threw 2 "L" plates on the bonnet and peeled off the double sided tape backing and with my fingers crossed and a prayer dropped the scoop on the bonnet!
4. in hind sight - I should have spray painted the scoop first - I originally thought why bother painting a black plastic scoop on a black plastic Jeep LoL
Cheers Hunty
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I have just pulled it off and turned it around, apparently the windscreen creates a high pressure system just above the cabin air intake that makes the reverse scoop idea DUMB! - However the heat will still rise up and out when wheelin in 4x4 Low and I can get a heap more air under the hood at speed - well thats my theory and I'm sticking with it
cheers Hunty
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...%20JK/file.jpg
Finally got a winch
picked it up whilst in the USA for $290 and it came with genuine dyneema rope - smuggled it home in my suitcase lol
http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v.../JeepScoop.jpg
Another Mod that really made a huge difference - I picked the rancho's up cheap from the AJOR classifieds and could not be happier! - if i want to run like a pensioner and float on a cloud I select setting 1 .
If I want to go hard on the tar or I load it up with fat @sses, rooftop tent and trailer I turn em up to 4 or 5 for a really nice tight ride.
I added the shock relocation brackets to ensure the shocks didnt hit the chasis!
So this is what I learnt whilst installing the Ranchos
1. They don't fit out of the box & clash with the rear sway bar.
2. They are awesome - have improved my ride outta sight!
3. its a relatively easy adjustment / fix to make them fit.
The front Ranchos installed easily and fitted very well but the rear Ranchos ext reservoir outlet / connection was positioned exactly on top of the sway bar and if installed as is & without modification would definitely get broken off first time out wheelin.
I am sure there are many solutions however the one I chose not only makes space for the ranchos but also gives a little help to the rear sway bar.
I added a small block to lower the the sway bar mount on both sides and now there is ample clearance
I hope this info is useful to those of you with JK's and Adjustable Rancho's with Ext reservoirs
cheers Hunty
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Hi Guyz
I finally got around to completing a project that has been in my head for years; turn my front bar into an air tank so I can run a rattle gun whilst out wheelin on a tough trail!
I installed my ARB compressor in behind my spare wheel - mainly because under the bonnet of my JK the temperature reaches that of Satans BBQ!
I then welded up the ends of my front bar to make it Air tight - drilled and tapped a brass drain plug and installed a quick release air outlet with non return valve.
I wanted to know the pressure so I added a PSI gauge to the right of my steering wheel.
Finally today I charged it up to 100psi (recommended by the manufacturer of my rattle gun) and attempted to get 1 of the wheel studs off that had been rattled on by an intellectually challenged tyre monkey! LoL - so tight that I bent my wheel brace trying to loosen it!
I hope you enjoy the write up as much as I will enjoy having my rattle gun on the trails
cheers
Hunty
ps - the last 2 pix are photobucket videos - just click in the middle of them to watch.
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I have recently added 5 more 100w lights to my JK and was wondering how my alternator was coping, I also wanted to know just how much strain my winch was placing on my Alternator, battery and electrical system at different levels of Pull!
I now have 900w of light (Hi Beam) and according to my new Ammeter I am using 61amps out of a total of 160 (yes I got lucky and my jeep has a 160amp alternator)
To save you all the pain I went through - heres a couple of tips
1. buy a ammeter and shunt that reads up to 500Amps
2. if you buy off Ebay as I did and they don't supply any instructions or wiring diags then pls only connect the shunt between the battery neg and the jeep - eg disconnect the black wire from the battery and insert the shunt!
3.be very careful to connect the sensor wires to the shunt with the correct polarity - if you don't you will need to buy a replacement Ammeter with a few seconds!
Warning - Science content - What is a shunt - well it is a device with a tiny amount of resistance (75ma) so if you connect a load - (in my case 900w of light) to a battery and you connect through a shunt the voltage that you can read at the battery will be (if the battery is full) 13.8v and if you measure the voltage after it has gone through the shunt it will be approx .006v less - this tiny discrepancy is translated by the ammeter and displayed (in my case) as 61amps. - sorry for the science content Jeepers - LoL - but i'm sure at least 1 person wants to now!
I now it takes approx 250amps to pull a 3.5ton Patrol up a steep hill skidding and bellied out scrapping all the way up!
cheers Hunty
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Hi Guyz
I am loving my new tyre dogs - Pressure & Temperature monitoring (realtime)
I added the monitors to hopefully save destroying an expensive tyre or two whilst wheelin - I have programmed the monitors for on road and off road;
On road the low pressure alarm is set to activate when a tyre falls below 30psi and I usually run between 32 & 35psi
Off road I set the alarm to a couple of psi below my aired down pressure ; if I am on sand and am running 12psi I set the alarm to 10psi
Hopefully this will allow me time to pull over and fix a leak before I have chance to shred them driving on a flat tyre - as all of you know its hard sometimes to know when you have a flat especially if you are in MUD!
I bought the tyre dogs that screw onto the valve stem - dumb@ss I hear some of you saying already (Yom- LoL).
Why;
1. I wanted to be able to remove them and use them on hire vehicles.
2. They are coded to the wheel position so if (and I always do at half way) I changed the front tyres to the back - didnt want to have to break the tyre bead. just to relocate the monitors.
3. I often tow a trailer and will take the front 2 off and put on the trailer when towing - as you all know when the trailer starts to feel a little soft / bungee to tow its too late - tyre already shreaded.
Tip
When I screwed them onto the valve they protruded past the sidewall of the tyre - this was clearly going to be a bad idea for serious wheelin so I took another handful of smart@ss pills and modified my rims!
I found a wheel mod friendly tyre store and had them remove my tyres and drill 4 additional valve stem sized holes and installed 4 extra valve stems - 1 in each rim! as close to the centre of the rim and as far as possible away wheelin danger.
Bonus
Not having to remove them & replace them everytime I wanted to Air Down & Air Up
I can now air up with the Mrs comfortable in the car with aircon on - all she has to do is toot the horn when the tyres are back to road pressure - I don't have to continuously check the pressure - can do other things like reconnect my sway bars, wipe mud from lights and number plates etc
Enjoy Cheers Hunty
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Finally got rid of the 3.21's - which made my heap quite sluggish when I ran 35's
so I changed to 4.56's and ARB air leakers even though I currently run 33's MTZ's I like the 4.56's it gives me quite a good low 1st gear when rock hopping + their is still the smallest chance that one day I can get engineered on 35's
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The drawers really make touring in the 2dr JK much more pleasant - I made really big drawers - they filled up the entire TUB - plenty big enough for the Mrs & I to pack everything we needed for a 10,000km road trip into central OZ
A carpenter I am not! so I will not bore you with a dumbass how to. (especially as I have no idea anyway! LoL - lots of wood, screws and liquid nails!)
I will however point out a couple of "Jeep Thangs"
1. - the rear floor is not flat or level
2. - the rear seat mounts in the floor are not (in mine anyway) centered
3. - the tub, dont what else to call it (in mine anyway) is not square!
I got out a huge hammer to flatten the little metal tabs that the removable fiber/plastic storage cover slots into.
I have made a little access hole in order to utilise the small lower storage are.
Still to come (and I havent figured out the best way to do it yet) is some kind of Piano hinge on the front end - behind the driver and passenger seat to allow me to access the 2 large extra storage areas in front of the wheel arches.
Yes I made my drawers BIG! - i wanted to use all the available space in the back of my huge 2dr JK LoL - i didnt even use sliders because I wanted to maximise the space available for the drawers! - to ensure they slide I used 17mm 6 ply with the hard shinny finish and coated them with silicone!
I relocated the sub to behind the drivers seat - it fits in there comfortably and gives better bass in the front!
Covered it all in marine grey carpet and it looks like a bought 1!
cheers Hunty
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I set my rig up to do the Cape with the SJC and took it out to Uluru as a test - It tours really well - very comfortable.
I designed the bars myself as I wanted them to be very strong (to hold my fat @ss)
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[IMG]http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv217/ashunty/file-4.jpg[/IMG
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Hi Guyz
This is perhaps my best mod ever!!!!
What the hell were Chrysler thinking!!! - who on earth wants to listen to that annoying chime just because they have opened their drivers door! or they want to slowly winch up a steep hill covered in mud and don't want to wear or dirty up their seat belt (especially if its a daily drive) (please always wear your seat belt because if you don't and your airbag goes off it will probably kill you!)
This mod will give you a switch to decide if you want your Jeep JK factory or quiet!
The only downside to this mod is - if you silence the chime you also disable the interior light sensor -(only on the drivers side) the light will still come on from the light control on the steering column and the passenger door!
What you need
1. Scotch Lock 25c
2. Red switch - Jaycar $2.95c
3. small piece of wire and some electrical tape.
4. Peace and Quiet - priceless!
Tools
1. philips head screw driver for the 4 screws in the door
2. allen Key for the hex head inside the door release
3. wire stripper and Soldering iron / solder
Step 1
Remove inside door skin - remove 4 screws and 1 hex head bolt
gently pry off the trim starting from the bottom of the door - just pull and you will hear the plastic locks popping of 1 at a time - go slow and and after you have released the bottom of the skin lift the door skin up to clear the bottom of the window lip - carefully remove the plug to the central locking switch.
Step 2
cut the purple wire - sorry the photo is little blurred
Step 3
drill hole for switch - any where you like! - theres plenty of options re space for a switch!
Step 4
insert and wire up switch to purple wire.
Step 5
replace door trim.
Step 6
clamp scotch lock onto green and black seatbelt sensor wires under drivers seat.
Step 7
Brag to your friends that you can open your drivers door and not have to put up with the endless annoying chime and the stereo stays on - you can go 4x4 wheelin with your seat belt off and not have to listen to the annoying chime - please always wear your seat belt because if you don't and your airbag goes off it will probably kill you! or at least break your neck! :(
Enjoy
cheers Hunty
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Hi Guyz
I woke up sunday morning and all was well, Bathurst 1000 on the TV, a perfect day brewing until - I had a great idea - why not install a switch inside my Jeep to run my winch!
So I took a fistful of smarta$$ pills and begun!
I decided I wanted to keep the original SmittyX wired remote and add a wireless transmitter / receiver and a switch inside the cab near the steering wheel.
After much sitting around and watching the great race I realised that I really should install some kind of hidden switch to disable the winch so when I park it with the roof off people will not be able to reach into my cab press the winch out button and easily rip off my dyneema rope (which I keep tightly spooled onto the winch - so tight in fact that the mechanical free spool release can't be operated until some slack is created by pressing the winch out button for a few seconds.
I grabbed another handful of smarta$$ pills and realised immediately that if someone with a smittyX wired remote control really wanted my dyneema rope they could just plug their winch control into my winch and spool it all out - so I needed a master lockout switch preferably in the cab and preferably with a key
finally I got motivated to do it and thought what if someone sitting inside the cab (baby sitting the steering wheel and brakes) were to press the winch out button whilst I was outside the cab overseeing the winching and pressing the winch in button on the smittyX remote or the wirelss transmitter "would the winch blow up in spectacular fashion??? (If you know what happens please post up) - a lockout of some sort needed to be engineered!
quick tally up
1. Wired remote
2. Wireless remote
3. Incab switch
4. Master lock with key switch
5. electrical lockout system
I went to the wreckers because I knew that car window switches have a lockout system built in to stop dad in the front and little johnny in the back both pressing opposites (up & down simultaneously) and blowing up the window winder
I wanted a slimline switch - i had seen other JK Jeeps with Arb switches mounted in the A pillar and wanted to try to get a little more subtle installation so I found a nice (LoL) SSangyong Musso 4x4 at pick a part and extracted its rear window switch.
Holdens still leading so I got bored with the race and started to sketch possible circuit diagrams (as per pic lol) and realised that I would need at least 2 relays to ensure fool proof lockout
Final tally
1. Wired remote
2. Wireless remote
3. Incab switch
4. Master lock with key switch
5. electrical lockout system inc 2 x 12v relays with N/O N/C contacts
6. Hookup wire
7. Fuse holder and fuse
8. Convoluted plastic split tube to protect wire going from Cab to winch
9. 3 way selector switch - Jaycar i off ii
10. 2 more boxes of smarta$$ pills - because this became a real noodle scratcher
Step 1
cut in switches - i preffer to use a piece of cardboard and cut a hole with a stanley knife and test fit my switches in the cardboard first - when I get the perfect fit I trace the hole onto the A pillar and then cut with a sharp knife and file with a metal file to get the hole as perfect as I can!
Step 2
open the passenger door, remove the side dash pannel and you will see a hole blocked with yellow insulation material, get a big screw driver and poke through it - you now have acess from cab to engine bay - install cable
Step 3
wiring, soldering and crimping
Basic wiring concepts
1. the key interrupts the 12v coming from the winch controller b4 it gets to a) the in cab switch b) the wireless remote and c) the standard smittyX wired remote control
2. The little switch (i off ii) is connected to both relays (i) to relay 1 and (ii) to relay 2 - 12v positive in ---- the negative in is connected to the Jeeps earth - when the switch (i) is pressed the relay (1) is activated the same goes for switch (ii) and relay 2 - --- because the relays provide a N/C output (N/C stands for normally closed - relay output is on even when the relay is not energised) it is possible to wire the incab switch through the relay N/C connection! ---- this will mean that when the switch is pressed (activating the wireless or wired remotes) and the relay is activated the in cab switch will get disconnected. (sorry if I am making no sense - run out of smarta$$ pills - LoL - if anyone can better explain this little relay magic please post up!
3. Connect everything up but keep the main 12v feed (350amp big red cable) to the winch off the battery incase of any D'oH fickle finger of fate actions - test with multi meter to ensure all works as desired.
in conclusion
The Key is the Master switch
the little switch determines which of the 3 input options will go to the winch
Wired remote, wireless remote and in cab switch
It all works well and looks neat and I don't have to worry about blowing up my winch
If anyone has any suggestions on how to improve the system please post up
enjoy
cheers Hunty
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I was challenged by a mate - to try and prove you can reverse winch without running the cable under your Jeep
below is the video I made - enjoy
cheers Hunty
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4tI3HtgdCY
I noticed that my heap was running on bowing rear springs (Misaligned) caused by lifting the suspension with extended length springs by the moron who regularly drives it! (me)lol
I am loaded to the MAX 40ltr extra fuel + 40ltr extra water roof top tent, cooking gear & fridge, tools hi lift jack, all my work equipment, my lightweight draws NOT !, spares clothes etc!!
I suspected that the springs on full flex where bottoming out possibly worse - pinching and maybe damaging them - ( I need to add appropriate bump stops)
I just recently picked up a huge Swag from TassieJK (Thanx again Mal) which included really nice rubicon express springs and Spring perch realignment brackets and adjustable rear track bar - all of which I installed today!
I am the worlds biggest Idiot!!! - what was I thinking tackling this job in the carpark @ Rundle st Mall (whilst the Mrs shopped).
1. whist Jeep is fully loaded and b4 jacking - attach spring compressors (it just makes it easier to compress them) and compress the cr@p out of them!
2. Remove lower shock mount bolt.
3. Jack up jeep remove tyre.
4. Optional - remove trackbar - i did just to make access easier
5. Remove already compressed spring.
5. If you are smart ( I wasn't lol ) use angle grinder to remove factory perch - if you are a complete moron (yes thats me lol) piddle away at them with a useless hacksaw! for 6 hours - then be so totally buggeredx that driving back to camp is near impossible LoL
6. bolt on new adjustable perches!
7. re install springs - (in may case compress new springs first).
8. put tyre back on
9. drop jack slowly and check the springs have centred perfectly.
10. re attach lower shocky mount bolt and re attach track bar
Enjoy the feeling of your new jeep - and your handiwork or what ever LoL
cheers Hunty
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Went wheelin with the Sydney Jeep Club!
and I'm still cleaning mud out of everything LoL - I even had to clean mud out of my wallet (and it was in my jeans back pocket) at the time of my Humungously stupid decision to follow steve into a big muddy bog hole with only my bar doors to shield me- LoL
Good news - if anyone else is stupid enough to fill their JK with my mud.
1. the carpets all come out very easily you just need to make a 1cm cut in the carpet close to the driver and passenger front outside seat bolt and you can get all the carpets out without having to remove the seats (unlike other 4x4's)
2. There many floor drain holes just pop them out with a screw driver.
don't forget to pop out the bung hole in the area at the back where the Jack is stored and then just hose it all out - oh yeah - if anybody wants to know how to fix a mud clogged seat belt - just PM me
cheers Hunty
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