Spooky...

[Dru]

(Spooky) action at a distance, of course. :encouragement:

OK it seems a good place to start with a farewell to a well known club Jeep. RIP Mud Magnet.

3135

Mud Magnet in better days. More reccies were done in this Jeep than I can remember. Her favourite trips were Airlie, Killy Loop, and absolutely every single Jeep-Hers event. (If you can't remember, bloke(!), they were Kerry's Ladies' days.)

3136

There it is, the offensive item, bar the front seats the ONLY Rubicon specific item left in this JK weekend warrior - the freak'n Transfer Case. Note that contrary to all forensic opinions, provided to ease the driver guilt factor rather than by substance I suspect, that the chain is completely undamaged. Which means it had to be a fluid level issue and driver must share culpability as it is something that mechanics expect that there will be plenty of warning about. What can I say - hand on heart, there were no noises, squeals or anything else. Honest guv. :jaded: :jaded: :jaded:

Anyway, Goodbye Mud Magnet (NOT named because we like mud, quite the opposite, because we HATE mud but were quasi-permanently besmirched by the stuff!)

[Dru]

And back to Spooky action.

In 2019 why a JK not a JL? Well, let's see the JL and it's after-market kits have a little time in the Aus trails first. And there are some sensational deals available for the few basically new JK's that are left. And of course we know the JK in a way we just don't with the JL. We're not dissing the JL, just not for us, not now.

There is also the cost issue of being able to transfer much of the components from Mud Magnet. It would be silly to ignore.

4WD differences this time:

AUTO: hey, we like rock crawling and as much as I love manuals we are going with the superior rock crawling set up.

SPORT not RUBICON: Again I'm not dissing the Ruby, best 4wd out of the box in Aus, hands down. But after on-going modification the only Rubicon bit left (Mud Magnet) was the transfer case, which blew up. Dramatically. This project is starting as a Sport.

JKU not JK: A shorty is just a peach and work really well, even for desert cruising - for a couple. Personally I would choose a TJ project over a JK these days, not that Kerry agrees. But we had in mind more load carrying, less "tail low" behaviour, and more comfort. IE longer wheel base. I'd compensate ramp over with 37" tyres, but it seems you can't engineer this in Qld. Work in progress.

3137

The Spooky build under supervision at our new home. Serious stuff happening here!

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Haha! OK a bit of pretense, build will happen at 7 Slot on the Gold Coast. And not till March damnit! But we have started pimping, and thank god for that. Spooky is starting to feel like a real Jeep, just a bit.

:highly_amused: :highly_amused: :highly_amused:

PS note that for now, Spooky fits under a garage door? My commitment to Jeeping - THIS WILL NOT LAST!!!

[H2Micr0]

Hey Dru and Kerry.

Great to see you are making a start on the new build.

Your patience will be rewarded.

Cheers
Ben

[isherz]

How much does the supervisor charge per hour?
Seriously good start!

Killy loop will miss you in February...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Dru]

Thanks Ben, tough times for the Trip Coordinator in Sydney at the moment!

Di, supervisor is a bit pushy to be honest. :emmersed:

SO completed so far:
1. window tinting
2. front driver and passenger grab handles
3. portable fire extinguisher holder
3. splash decals - Kerry has set on a purple accessories theme for Spooky

Wish list - new
a. Front Uneek stubby bar with extenders (ordered)
b. Warn winch and synthetic rope (ordered)
c. Tom Woods 35 spline moly drive shafts (ordered)
d. Uneek rock rails - really happy with these on Mud Magnet (ordered)
e. miscelaneous such as diff breathers and the like - melted on Mud Magnet
Not in a hurry for this but the transfer case will get replaced at some stage

Transfer from Mud Magnet
f. 4" lift hybrid system based on Synergy control arms
g. rear AEV bar, spare tyre carrier and 40l fuel caddy
h. 35" Micky Thomson Crawlers on AEV pintel 17" wheels (I would choose another wheel but we already have these)
i. Speaker head lights and indicator LEDs
j. G2 D44 diffs ratio = 4.88 with ARB air lockers
k. Mopar roof rack hoops + rhino support brackets, new tray required
l. internals incl Rubicon front leather seats, dash GPS head unit, 2 way
m. manual sway bar disconnect
n. Kings racing 20 point adjustable shocks

Hopefully to be ready for Camp Coffs. Work is to be handled by Seven Slot who I can already heartily recommend.

[SnakeDoctor]

Thanks for the detailed post, looking forward to see you what you guys do with a 4 door.

[Dru]

<Pretty sad to be continuing the build page without the opportunity to chat about it with Ben. RIP Jeep brother.>

Mud Magnet is gradually being pillaged as a salvage, though we have not started suspension at all yet.

3148

Two main start points - electronics and rated tow points. As usual there are minor glitches in both categories.

3149

We hoped swapping over the Sat Nav head unit would be a simple hardware switch, predictably wiring loom means peeling apart the vehicle innards - dash and throughout. Spooky looked like this too as things proceeded. But all is well in the long run:

3150

GPS is operational and the two way is in. :smile-new: The minor glitch is that the U-connect jumper cable is different between the two head units so hands free and reversing camera will wait a replacement cable and we need to learn a way through the confusion of finding correct part nos. :hypnotysed:

We were unable to get the AEV rear bar, fuel caddy and 35" wheel carrier transferred over, damnit. This time it is another wiring loom issue. When Jeep dealer did the rust proofing (it is electronic) they ran it within the wiring loom and pulled the cable through the chassis rail. this means that the cables interrupt the connection points into the chassis where the new brackets for the AEV bar have to be bolted through the chassis - right where the imposter cables are. I am completely of the opinion that I never want a Jeep dealer mech or engineer anywhere near a working 4-WD again, but thought rust proofing would be OK. Wrong. Also their rust-proofing control units are physically tiny compared to a proper system (how can they do the same job) and it is unkown how well the pads (electronic attachment points) are adhered. I has my suspicions! It will be a cut and carve wiring from the control unit and bodge job with the existing components for now. In time we may well replace with a proper after market system and we will lose warranty in the mean time. You live and learn.

3151

So the rear camera is in (integrated with plate light) and wired just needs that jumper cable at the head unit. We were able to have the tow hitch fast tracked without the AEV rear bar.

3152

3153

Front and rear LEDs done - no more highway driving by Jeep candle-light! Front new Uneek bar is in. The winch was meant to slot straight into position but strangely has bolting positions that are different to the slots provided. Engineer is resolving strengthening and repositioning brackets/washers. Bit of a pain but not like the freaking rust prevention wiring loom drama. Uneek presumably revisiting design with the Warn winch.

Once the roof rack goes on we will relocate the antennae as I'd rather it didn't impeed the driver vision.

So far so good. And we are ready with actual rated recovery points to re-join the Jeep and 4WD club world. :eagerness:

Camp Coffs - we are looking at you!

[Dru]

With one exception - jumper lead for U connect system - phase 1 is complete and we are locking in Camp Coffs. :encouragement:

Winch

3156

I don't actually have an issue with the Runvar product but we are being built by SevenSlot and they only put their faith in the original and "best" with Warn. So we have gone with the advice, little point being with a shop otherwise and we have been happy $ package which has been agreed.

Also suggest that any winch which is a hermetically sealed unit should be considered a throwaway - can't maintain them. Winches do require maintenance, they are highly exposed to mud, rain, sunlight, and particularly the free spool systems jam. DTU training says they should not be used at that point, so a maintainable winch was prerequisite this time.

We intentionally went lightweight winch with the smaller lighter JK. This was an error. Once you start B grade trips you winch needs to be considered more than simply recovery and once we started touching A grade a winch is actually a part of your "go forward". So heavy duty this time. Interestingly the weight from the winch is actually noticeable on the drive feel. It seems obvious that the "plush armchair" ride as set up stock will harden up as we complete the build. Not much in it at this stage but we will be keeping an eye on it.

Rock Rails

3157

We really like Uneek products for the JK. The rock rails on Mud Magnet took a hiding and never failed. The bracket attachment shape and position did collect mud which needed attention when water blasting but it is a mild complaint. The rails on the longer Spooky attach in three locations (two on the JK) and mount directly to the chassis. We like.

Rear bar

3158

AEV rear bar + fuel caddy + spare holder. TBH I'm not overly fond of it but Kerry loves it. The fuel caddy adds 40l so removes the need for two jerry cans on the Simpson, which I admit is handy. It does take water in the bar which might be handy for washing when camping but has proven a pointless feature which is unused - AND it complicates possible mounting points for roof racks - many systems need to be bolted into the bar and that can't happen here. The spare wheel holder had proven an absolute menace on Mud Magnet - but to be fair this was due to poor installation in the original build. Get it right and like all AEV equipment it is conservative and rubust. I might have considered Uneek as an alternative, but we already own it, and the problems we had were not the product, so I will learn to love it again. Note that as set up with the stock spare (IE no weight) the spare is located too close to the rear window (can't use the wiper). We will adjust position only the once when the 35"s are installed.

GPS power cable

3159

It's a minor point but have a separate lead installed permanently for the iPad (mini) which we use for Hema. There are plenty of alternatives to Hema though we keep coming back to it - they all run on an iPad. Check the right amp rating for the iPad as not all iPhone charge points will charge an iPad.

iDrive Unit

3160

Yet to be fully convinced of this system, essentially reprograms the (fly by wire) throttle to give quicker response to foot input. Makes the Jeep feel powerful though the drive around town feels a little more jerky to me. What I am hoping for is a quicker response to foot OFF the gas in rock climbing when you get a jerk for instance both axles hitting a ledge at the same time. Time will tell.

So, the Spook is starting to look a little more grown up with Phase 1 complete

Phase 2:
Roof rack, Rubicon leather seats, shelf system. Underbody armour. Heat release hood, snorkel, flairs.

Phase 3:
Suspension! I'm getting resigned around sticking with 35" as Q certification is problematic. 37" requires the swerve test, but it is more than the test in NSW where special equipment is required which is expensive so no engineer has invested in it. Though I think we know someone in NSW who does it (allied with ATV in Five Dock) so it may be a longer term initiative. Initially we should be 4" lift, 35" tyres, which is a hybrid build from Mud Magnet involving G2 D44 diffs, synergy CAs, Kings adjustable shocks etc.

Phase 4:
Starting to think this through, once you start it is hard to stop. :highly_amused: We are going to look at replacement transfer case and fully floating axles. I'd like gearing that matches the 5.13 diffs on Ruby TC (4.1) that we had in Mud Magnet. Currently we are 4.88 on Sport TC (3.6). Those 5.13 diffs have had a second life - you will see them on Jose's Venom. :encouragement:

It's a Jeep Life!


Dru'n'Kerry

[nitrobrent]

A free spooling winch is essential for a quick recovery.
Could be the difference between Jeep laying down or not.
My Warnie is nearly 20 years old and it can be freespooled with one finger on the hook.
Steel cable.

[Dru]

A free spooling winch is essential for a quick recovery.
Could be the difference between Jeep laying down or not.
My Warnie is nearly 20 years old and it can be freespooled with one finger on the hook.
Steel cable.

Hey Brent. Can only agree. The other thing that can get forgotten is that the winch needs re-spooling after it has been used. ..Rope in particular can get locked in from winching operations under load. I've seen the same happen with wire.

On the i-Drive: Kerry loves it and I'm getting used to it. Gear box seems to kick down an extra gear than before but holds pace better and seems smoother. Probably has an impact on fuel economy. On the whole we are not particularly worried about fuel economy (it is a Jeep afterall!) untill we are touring in remote areas. Still places like K1 and QAA line tend to be at much slower pace - last Simpson trip we were close to 14 l/100k in those areas. Which was OK though clearly not what you would want for more intrepid treks with few fuel stops.

Freedom panel insulation

3165

Hard to capture in a pic, but we have insulated the roof with these pre-formed pads.Heat through the roof was quite noticeable on the Simpson, hopefully this will help.


Dru'n'Kerry

[Dru]

[Note: click on the pics to get full size.]

Finally the lift has commenced!

3173

Almost made if for Camp Coffs - but failed as the ESC/ABS/engine computer dropped into stupid mode. Turns out that the wheel sensors are too long for wheel/hub setup. "Solved" with spacers. Not fully solved as gear change, speedo etc are not right so we have to re-visit the Procal and i Drive. For later.

35" tyres (actually metric system which is closer to 34.3") under standard guards are not legal. The fenders are still to be done.

3174

Suspension system has been discussed earlier but it is a hybrid based on Synergy. If you look closely you will see that the extended brake line here is a little twisted and will need replacing before the job is finished. Note that the CAs (Control Arms) are fully adjustable - needed for 4" lift approx. They also need tuning.

3175

Front dif - G2 D44 4.88 gearing. I'm not sure you can see it from the pic, but the pinion angle is slightly overset. This means that the caster has been tweaked just a little excess angle - which to me is a perfect set up compromising the pinion (dif wear) just a tad in order to max set up against death wobble. Note that the angle between dif pinion and caster can't be adjusted but is manufactured in. The G2 is manufactured for a 4" lift, so when you try this with stock difs (or Rubi difs) you will not get as much caster. Another argument to not go beyond 2 1/2" lift - or look to your difs.

3176

Rear dif. Again hard to pick up in the pic, but I don't like the pinion angle this time and will need to have the CAs adjusted. If I am reading things correctly this will extend the wheelbase slightly by pushing the dif further towards the tail. In itself this should provide more highway stability (tuners often try to get as much length as they can), BUT we have had problems in the past with the rear wheels clashing in the guards being too far back. Tuning required anyway.

3177

Shocks - we have gone to Kings racing 20 point adjustable shocks. They are an excess really but we like them. I'm hoping to get Kings engineers into the shop at Seven Slot to carry out the fine tuning. For now though it's "adjusted by idiot" being myself. You can also see the extended stronger sway bar links and brake tube extensions as well.

3178

Cables and tubes extended through the rear bar are completely exposed. With my driving they will get hit and take something out for sure. Probably have to do that tidying up myself - don't look forward to it.

3179

Other things complete are:
x Sat Nav jumper leads - Kerry managed to translate the model numbers and parts lists, so that is all sorted. Though the rear camera needs a Jeep dealer for something (groan).
x Dif breathers are in and set.
x Phone hands free is done.

There is plenty to do though briefly:
x ESC/iDrive/Procal
x suspension and shock tune
x underbody armour
x roof rack
x heat discharge hood and snorkel
x internal shelves then revisit spares and tools

Cheers

Dru'n'Kerry

[Dieselcon]

Any updates ... wow again no expenses spared .. looking great guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SnakeDoctor]

Hey Dru - for high steer, did you run into any issues with wheel/tyre clearance because of the Pintlers? What did you end up going with? (Something Core44 specific?)

[Dru]

Hey Dru - for high steer, did you run into any issues with wheel/tyre clearance because of the Pintlers? What did you end up going with? (Something Core44 specific?)

OK. I’m not at all sure I understand the Q.

personally, and it is a hard felt personal issue, I don’t like and certainly do not recommend any AEV wheel. I have Pintlers and will live with them. Little choice, really.

We have definitely had rubbing, but I don’t see it as a Pinter issue. That is about geometry and set up. The AEV wheels are a well known standard in terms of offset etc. But they have failed many times for us.

Our year of manufacture of the Pinter was apparently not good. We have 6 wheels and over time have had two replaced on warranty and another out of warrantee that was ditched into the garbage bin.

I don’t recommend AEV wheels.