View Full Version : Steve's jk
Well, after much deliberation and thought and looking behind the couch pillows for extra coin, I've taken the plunge and put a deposit on a new 2012 JK 4 Door Petrol. Hopefully delivered in a week.
Now the fun (and turmoil) begins.......
My biggest question at the moment is what height lift. I'm tossing between :smile-new:2, 2.5 or 3". I do not intend to ever go beyond that as I need it to have as good road manners as possible, because of the longer road trips we do and due to legality issues.
Any suggestion are most welcome as I open my credit card, ouch!
ps - if any one has a set of second hand shocks to suit, let me know as this is my second dilemma.
Steve
Steve F
04-09-12, 09:00 AM
Nice work :) If it was mine I'd go with as low a lift as possible that will fit 35's, so maybe 2.5" ?
Cheers
Steve
Steve - Thanks for that. I was leaning towards 2.5 after Paul was kind enough to let me go over his 4 door in depth. He has a 2.5" lift and it looks good to me.
Though I'm stuck with the 32" tyres for the time being and perhaps later a bit bigger
So you think that 2.5" can take up to 35's. That's interesting
with the 4 door you wanna go a touch higher than the 2 door, jsut due to the ramp over angle...... id be looking at a 3-4 inch lift.......jsut to get the belly up...... remember when you add bar work, skid plates etc, that 4 inch lift becomes 3.5 inch.......
Paul-JK
04-09-12, 01:12 PM
I think 35's will fit under a 2.5" lift. You might need to look at your bumps stops to stop them rubbing but they should fit. Having said that, there's a good chance you'd then need after market flares to keep it legal and you'd certainly need aftermarket wheels (or wheel spacers). You may also then want to look at re-gearing as well......which is then a great opportunity to add the lockers! Mmmm, best have a work with the minister of finance!
I agree with Rey in that the ramp over angle certainly isn't the 4dr's strong suit. If you're wanting to start hitting A grade tracks then I'd certainly be looking at a larger lift (along with the 35's and lockers). If you're wanting to be able to do what your current Grand does (or maybe a little more) then a 2.5" lift will do the job.
dobbo56
04-09-12, 04:11 PM
what about the Mopar 4" lift, this would be legal from the start. dont know how good there are though or how much.. David D..
Paul-JK
04-09-12, 05:43 PM
I've no idea what's in a Mopar 4" lift kit but at 4" you'd want to hope it was a hell of a lot more than springs and shocks. To be honest I wouldn't trust anything associated with Mopar, certainly not where suspension is concerned. What you get seems to depend on where you are so it's anybody's guess as to how good it is.
Also, I doubt their 4" lift wouldn't be legal. My understanding is that no 4" lift is legal unless it's engineered OR supplied from the factory. I'm assuming this wouldn't be engineered and nor would it be fitted at the factory. It would likely be a locally fitted accessory, even if you ordered it through Jeep on a brand new car. That's my understanding of what they do with the Mopar 2" lift.
The AEV lifts get a good rep. Their 3.5" kit is supposed to excellent and they've just released a 2.5" kit as well (though these use control arm drop brackets rather than adjustable lower control arms to sort out the caster). Their 2.5" kit would likely be my choice if I was getting a US kit to fit to a petrol JK.
Well the list has started (and I've yet to see the new vehicle)
After much research I've decided on a 3" lift due to the LWB JK as Rey mentioned.
Most of the stuff has been ordered and all I have outstanding is the choice of shocks. I'm pretty sure with 3" (& appropriate bump stops) I need 25.5" shocks for the front & 27.5" for the rear. What people using for shocks?
redrubi
04-09-12, 07:24 PM
Steve Mate,
Welcome to the JK world of "MAN BARBIE" just buy stuff any stuff it's GREAT!!:encouragement:
Cheers
Andy&Charl:pirate:
I'm still waiting for delivery. urgh!
Hopefully will arrive soon and before Jambo. At least I have all the peripheral stuff ready to install.
Any one who has experience with the JK want to help me out can let me know please ASAP ( I know tuff with Jambo coming up but it's cutting it close).
Also where is good to get alignment especially Jeep caster etc around Sydney?
Paul-JK
11-09-12, 08:25 PM
The guys at Tyre Power in Narrabeen did mine. It's two businesses in one; Tyre Power/British and Swedish Motors and they do lots of work on Land Rover/Range Rover's both new and old and most of the guys are 4WD'ers (Mal the owner used to compete I think) so I thought I'd give them a go. They seemed to do a good job with mine and I didn't get any of the usual "it's different from the patrol!" comments while they stand a scratch their heads which I took as a good sign.
aussiejk
12-09-12, 04:02 PM
you will clear 35s with a 2.5'' lift you will need to have 2.5'' rear bump stop and 3inch up front, you may remember my red 2 door rubi this is what i was running. Also on stock rims with a 1.5'' spacers, no rubbing at all i think it was the perfect set up, and best of all it all look proportional.
Thanks
I don't think Ill run 35 for quite a while but I appreciate your suggestions . Im stuck with my 32 KM2 till funds permit.
Well finally got some good news , well as good as I can get after some "terse" words with the Jeep management.
My Jeep will be ready for this Friday though I need to return it Monday for two days to get something installed, which they forgot about.
Anyway the excitement is building. First new vehicle I'v bought in 20 years!!
Well At 4.30 today i drove the new jk home yipee
Not sure if any one else has the new 3.6 but first impression is its smooth and quiet. Mind you thats only 10 ks. Need to getused to the higher standing which will be a bit strange when its lifted
So the fun begins
Steven.Boyd
14-09-12, 06:38 PM
Post up a few pics.
Good luck with the build
Paul-JK
15-09-12, 06:54 AM
That's great news Steve.
Can't wait to see some photos and then see the transformation begin!
Dieselcon
15-09-12, 07:13 AM
Well done Steve. Hope you get to love the Jk us much as most of us do ours....;) you know what I mean....pics please....once setup need to come south again and play in Yalwal.
Steve, knowing the sort of person you are, you don't want any hassles with the long arm of the law. Stay away from spacers. Get offset wheels when the time is right.
Congrats on the purchase.
Thanks guys
Well first thing was to read the manual then remove softtop. What a hassle on yr own
Managed but silly how they ship it
Rey good advice. I hve a set of steel 17x8 fr the grand which have +30 offset compared to oem This shld do me fine for the moment
Btw wht fuel r u using as manual say dont use premium!
Use the 95 RON fuel Steve. The Anything less or E10 u will find the motor will start pinging. So 95 or above.
Steve we use 98 octane petrol, a little more expensive, but the Jeep gets more Kms per tankful than other grades of fuel.
dobbo56
15-09-12, 03:40 PM
i use e10 with no adverse effects,no pinging. i ran it on 98 and found no real differences in economy or performance. have fun with it Steve. cheers David D.
Steve F
15-09-12, 03:48 PM
Not that this is relevant to the JK but I used to run E10 in the XJ and it would ping on hot days and on climbs. Once I fitted a snorkel it lowered the intake temperature and now it runs fine on E10 and has for years now no matter the grade of climb or airtemp. High Octane fuel will help reduce pinging with high under bonnet/engine temps but bring them down and you wont get pre-detenation and can run a lower octane fuel.
Cheers
Steve
Interesting - The manual states that it need to use minimum 91 and that "the use of premium gasoline is not recommended as it will not provide any benefit over regular gasoline in these engines". It does however say not to use ethanol above 10%
Perhaps the new 3.6l is different so Im confuse
My first hurdle of "upgrading" was the installation of a tow Hitch. I think the newer JK model has a different rear bumper with the plate sitting directly under the spare on the bumper. Needed to trim the low hanging plastic of the bumper to keep it in line with the bottom of the bumper, so the hitch protrudes out.
So now I need to move the plate and have a light - I want to attached it centred on the spare.
Where can I get a plate holder that does exactly that ?
Thanks1701
redrubi
15-09-12, 06:13 PM
ARB or KAYMAR make them! Come and get it dirty on Sun and you can see how I have mine set up.( That sounds so much better than "have a look at mine!! LOL)
Cheers
Andy1702
ARB have a number plate relocation bracket that will do what you are looking for.
Thanks - Ill check them out.
Ive also come across:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Wrangler-JK-black-rear-license-plate-holder-OEM-bracket-factory-Mopar-part-/180973428004?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a22db5d24&vxp=mtr
Paul-JK
15-09-12, 06:34 PM
My first hurdle of "upgrading" was the installation of a tow Hitch. I think the newer JK model has a different rear bumper with the plate sitting directly under the spare on the bumper. Needed to trim the low hanging plastic of the bumper to keep it in line with the bottom of the bumper, so the hitch protrudes out.
So now I need to move the plate and have a light - I want to attached it centred on the spare.
Where can I get a plate holder that does exactly that ?
Thanks1701
No, unfortunately all Aus JK's get the number plate down there. No idea why they can't use the US bumper which has the number plate to one side and doesn't have that bottom section.......probably due to some ADR rule somewhere.
As others have said, there are a few relocation kits around that either allow you to re-use the stock lights or provide new ones. Jeep themselves must also have one I guess as they sell the tow bars. I also saw something interesting the other day on AJOR. Someone had fitted one of the Vector Offroad Exo Racks which looked good. They fit over the rear wheel allowing you space to put your number plate but also giving a platform to mount camp lights/reversing lights or rear vision cameras as well. I was thinking about getting one of these when I eventually pull my finger out and get a tow bar fitted to mine.
redrubi
15-09-12, 06:47 PM
Steve & Paul,
Don't get the JEEP one! It attaches with two metal bars that poke through the Spare wheel spokes, so to change the spare tyre you firstly have to undo the two pissy nuts, then unplug the electrics, then without loosing all the bits change the tyre and put it all back together.:grief:
I use bp ultimate. It runs tons better. But not sure what the new motor needs.
redrubi
15-09-12, 10:02 PM
Yep BP Ultimate is my only choice! I've tried all the others and it seems to work the best. But like Rey said not sure about the new motors!
Thanks guys,I'll check with Jeep about the newer motor.
From past experiences, the last thing I want to do is minimise drilling unessential holes, So people, where have you installed your UHF?
BTW I came across this for the plate holder. about $80 delivered
1703
Paul-JK
16-09-12, 10:33 AM
Thanks guys,I'll check with Jeep about the newer motor.
From past experiences, the last thing I want to do is minimise drilling unessential holes, So people, where have you installed your UHF?
BTW I came across this for the plate holder. about $80 delivered
1703
I think this is the US style one. Handy in that the location is already there so no drilling but it sticks out past the side of car so I'd be worried about damaging it off road. You can see it, though not very well, on this photo. This was a JK I hired in Hawaii a couple of years ago.
http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/plawton/Wrangler/th_P1080995.jpg (http://i862.photobucket.com/albums/ab181/plawton/Wrangler/P1080995.jpg)
Might be better to try and use that mounting plate but see if can go on on the rear bumper between the section of the bumper that sticks out around the end of the chassis rails and the spare tyre.
Usually mount the radio behind one of the two panels below the steering wheel out of sight of the villains.
Cpage66
17-09-12, 06:00 PM
No pics = didn't happen!
I need some help/advice guys
I started with my mods.
The first was to install the larger springs and that's where it stopped. I could not compress them enough to allow me to put them in. I dropped the axle as much as it would allow me,
Is there a technique, trick or larger spring compressors?? I was short about 4 inches!!!
Help?? Desperate new JK owner.
Paul-JK
18-09-12, 06:31 PM
I had the same issue when I fitted my front springs (which are about 575mm long uncompressed). People said all I'd have to do is disconnect the sway bar, the shocks and the track bar but I wasn't even close to getting them in with that. In the end I had to disconnect the drive shaft and the lower control arms to get the axle low enough (and it was still an effort to get them in). The big issue then is getting the axle back into a position to get all of that lot (particularly the LCA's) connected again. Now it'll depend on how long your springs are as to how far through that you have to go but if I ever had to do it again I'm going to buy some spring clamps. The ones I saw were about $150/pair for the biggest ones I could find (in Repco I think) but it'd be worth it as it'd save me hours of pulling, pushing and swearing while sitting on a cold concrete floor.
Well I started at the rears a gave up after a few hours. I think I need longer compressors as well as a cordless 1/2 ratchet to save my punny muscles.
paul - the last thing I want is to start disconnecting stuff, too hard to realign
I might resort to a shop but who?
Paul-JK
18-09-12, 08:33 PM
The rear's weren't too bad from memory....just disconnect the sway bar, the shocks and the diff breather and unbolt the brake line bracket from the underside of the floorpan and the diff dropped plenty. No need to pull of driveshafts or control arms so a nice quick job.
I used OL in Brookvale to fit mine initially (though I've had them in and out a few times since by myself) but it's fairly safe to say that they know a lot more about Patrols & Cruisers than they do about JK's. I like the guys in there and they always try to help but they're not the best at following instructions....even simple ones!
I'd think Mal at Tyre Power/British & Swedish Motors in Narrabeen would be happy to do it. They have lots of experience in working with solid axle suspension on Land Rovers/Range Rovers (as well as Patrols, 'Cruisers, Suzuki's etc) and have always seemed knowledgable and open minded (which not all garages are when it comes to Jeeps!) when I've both my JK and our Jimny in there for for wheel alignments and bits and pieces. I'd certainly use them over OL if I was doing it again and didn't want to do it myself.
There's also Mitchell Bros is Brookvale who I know have done work on other peoples JK's. The few times I've been in they never really seemed like they wanted to answer my questions but I know other's who've recommended them.
Macquarie 4x4 also do a bit of work on JK's (and one of the guys owns one) but they're a bit further away (Windsor I think).
Not sure if there are any closer to you.
The other thing to remember is you need to torque the bolts up......a lot. I'd guess this was the same on your Grand but the track bar bolts and lower control arm bolts all need to be torqued to 125ft/lb. Not so bad when you working on a hoist but not always easy when you're lying on your back under a car.
Bring it up to Wooders early tomorrow arvo and we can have a go if it's dry?
Bring it up to Wooders early tomorrow arvo and we can have a go if it's dry?
REALLY! That would be Very nice as it would save me staying standard as Im at a loss...(The WJ was easy to put 3")
What time will you be there and will Dave be OK with that?
Ive done jeaps of different front springs in mine, with no trouble. (not sure why yours is being a biotch D'oh) heres what I always do;
1. remove bottom shock bolt.
2. disco the sway bar
3. free up the electronic sensor wires and brake lines
4. jack up the front end - i have winched up my front end before by attaching to a tree LoL
A little trick to getting the most out of your spring compressor
1. using (carefully) a good ratchet strap compress the spring a little so you can get the spring compressor off to a good start
2. ensure you place the spring compressors on the spring just of from centre or it will be a PITA to get em off after the install
I am also happy to help this arvo :)
cheers Hunty
Hunty and Rey That's fantastic if you would. I'm all teary....:hopelessness:
I can make it any time. Let me know time an dill be there
Steve
0411853859
I can be there at about 430
Just saw the meeting isn't at Wooders......Hunty where's good for u?
Eh. Where is the meeting?
See other thread..... Blue gum hotel. Waitara
So help tday is a no go??
May not have enough time...
Ok thanks Rey
If you or hunty can spare some time let me know please
See u tnite anyway
Steve
well I ended up getting a company to install me springs and shocks. So all is good, though even though I wanted 3" it ended up 3.65" !!!!
Tomorrow I have a few things like, install TB and rear bracket - should be straight forward.
Lengthen Front lower CAs
Extend diff breathers
Adjust hand brake cabled
Get alignment
But a problem highlighted by the installation company is the brake lines & ABS wire, They are Way too short even with the drop brackets.
Where can I get extended brake lines?????
Thanks
Steve
Abs wires should be ok, but you will need longer brake lines...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Abs wires should be ok, but you will need longer brake lines...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
Thanks Geoff
You're probably right as the ABS can be re-routed but where do I get the Brake Lines?
Steve F
20-09-12, 09:52 PM
Thanks Geoff
You're probably right as the ABS can be re-routed but where do I get the Brake Lines?
Wooders does extended XJ and TJ brake lines so probably has JK ones as well.
Cheers
Steve
Paul-JK
21-09-12, 08:21 AM
well I ended up getting a company to install me springs and shocks. So all is good, though even though I wanted 3" it ended up 3.65" !!!!
Wow. Now that's a big lift! You'd get 37's under there! Might look a little strange on stock sized tyres........but you'll certainly not have any issues with ramp over angle any more :smile-new: . What springs did you end up going with?
3 inch isn't big, 3.5 isnt either. Once you put bars on it etc it'll come down a bit.
i hope yr right rey
i wanted 3" but perhaps settle a bit
If Wooders can't help you out then try here - http://www.doubleblackoffroad.com/Products/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Extended-Brake-Line-Kit
Also - I'd recommend doing this before you wear the track bar mounts - http://www.doubleblackoffroad.com/Products/Synergy--Jeep-JK-Suspension-F911-Hardware-Kit
Well today & yesterday were busy
Installed:
UHF with home made aerial support bracket on spare tyre holder
Front Adjustable TB
Rear TB relocation bracket
Front Lower CA's
Front JKS disconnects
Rear JKS Extended links
Rear brake relocation brackets
Thanks to Wooders I got some SS front extended brake lines ( to be installed on weekend)
To do : bump stops
and should be sweet for the moment...
Dieselcon
22-09-12, 08:51 PM
Pics please.
Paul-JK
23-09-12, 10:27 AM
Hi Steve,
One of the guys posted this on AJOR but thought it might be useful for you. The first 13 minutes is a lift installation demo which may or may not be helpful but the last 5 minutes is the bit I thought you might want to watch. Basically, if you lift the new 2012 JK's any more than 2" you may have issues with the front driveshaft hitting the exhaust at full droop. Wasn't sure if you were aware of this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyJzW38fyjo&feature=player_embedded
Also interesting that Mopar are rebranding Teraflex lift kits as their own. The guy presenting it is from Teraflex.
Thanks Paul
Thanks for the heads up Paul.
If you're referring to the exhaust spacers. I've already done them last week. A bugger of a job which I'm 90% happy with. I'd be 100% if I could trim the exhaust about 20mm (1/2"). which would put slightly less pressure on the 3-4 rubber exhaust supports at the back end but have not the tool to pull the exhaust off the said supports.
Steve
uniuckychucky
23-09-12, 04:01 PM
My cousin just put on 3" lift with 33s it works great it would be a great lift for 35s you can fit 37s but its tight.
Yesterday I installed my bump stops.
As I'm running two set of tyres, OEM 245/75/17 and my KM2 which are 265/70/17 (yes I know they are smallish but they will do for now), Only need to add 1.2" at the rear bump stop.
A simple method is to go to the $2 shop, buy the poly kitchen cutting boards and cut to size. Very effective, easy to cut and you can easily add or subtract as the need arises.
Also extended the breather hoses which needed only about another 6" but an easy fix.
Installed the daystar switch panel that fits in front of the gear lever. Nice and neat. I intend to have in-cab winch control, drieving lights and air compressor controlled in one spot that looks factory (just waiting for front bar to arrive.... argh....delayed....argh
Have one question. With my second set of tyres I naturally get the low tyre warning beeping at me on start up. Is this a BIG long term problem? and how do I disable it?
Thanks
Dieselcon
25-09-12, 05:20 AM
Have one question. With my second set of tyres I naturally get the low tyre warning beeping at me on start up. Is this a BIG long term problem? and how do I disable it?
Thanks
Get a procal
Paul-JK
25-09-12, 07:00 PM
Hi Steve,
Just out of curiosity, what spring lengths did you get from SS? I think I have 555mm/570mm in front (passenger/driver) and 460mm/475mm in the rear so it'd be interesting to see what your spring lengths are given that you've gained a bit more height.
Flexjkre-490x/505x. 3"
flexjkfr-555/570. 3"
Paul-JK
25-09-12, 08:57 PM
Based on those my spring lengths I'm not surprised you got more than a 3" lift. You have the same front springs as me (which lifted mine about 2.5"), but you have the lighter petrol motor so you'll get more height. The main difference though is the rear. Your springs are 30mm longer than mine and mine gave a 2.5" lift (or maybe slightly more). It's no surprise that the back of yours is closer to 4" up really.
I'd say get your bar and winch on and see what the front settles to with the extra weight. I'd guess the extra weight on the front will give you around a 3" lift but the back end will still be where it is now. Once you know what the front is you can swap springs with Shane to get the rear balanced with the front. I had to do the same thing with mine, only I swapped front springs to lift the front further to match the rear. My guess would be to use the 490 you have and swap it to the drivers side and then get a new 475 for the passenger side and send the 505 back to SS. That'll give you (in theory) a little over 0.5" extra height over mine so the back should be a little over 3", and more importantly will balance with the front then as I suspect you'll have quite a pronounced forward rake once you get the extra weight of the winch/bar on the front.
Well after driving home late from Jambo, I noticed the high beams well are not really high beams! - they are poor.... a real shocker to say the least
Has any one got a suggestion on upgrading their their lights.
(I will get spotties later, when funds are available)
Start with a decent set of H4 globes...the stock reflectors aren't too bad
Steven.Boyd
03-10-12, 08:47 AM
I just put in a set of 90/100 H4 globes from Supercheap in mine about $17 each and has made a huge difference.
Thanks guys - looks like a reasonable price to get better lights
So any H4 will do ??? do I just replace one globe in the jk's?
dobbo56
03-10-12, 01:21 PM
Steve, ive put 50% brighter h4 halogen bulbs in my JK and found not much improvement, a little bit whiter, perhaps. Maby try going to a 100% brighter bulb, 55/60 watt. 90/100 may not be legal. ill talk to you tonight, Cheers David D..
dobbo56
03-10-12, 01:31 PM
also, HID lights must have auto leveling and headlight washers to meet rego requirements.
Though the jk has the headlight leveling button which should suffice.
Though the jk has the headlight leveling button which should suffice.
No it doesn't - it has to be an automatic levelling system.
Hella sell an aftermarket levelling controller that can be used to drive the motorised levelling mechanism though...
Part II
Installed the front bar and winch.
Gee it heavy lifting it all......as you need to have the winch & cables attached before mounting, as I found out by mistake....Took me about 10 hours because of unforeseen issues & because I'm fastidious, but all went well. A new (read toy) cordless 1/2" impact wrench made it a lot easier.
Ended up getting a XHD bar with the standard ends. I think they are good value, though I do admit I like the ARB one but at twice the price...... and it looks OK with the warn winch, though it would be better if the control box could be fitted under the bonnet. Also installed an in-cab winch control, so no real need for the standard winch controller installed on a daystar switch panel.
So that's it for a while, except I'll upgrade the head light high beam & perhaps some rubber mats...
are those ends removeable? looks good mate....... needs a fat stinger :P
Yes Rey. They are removable - just 3 bolts each side and you can place a plate in place
LED light
A few weeks ago I bought a set of 12-14 LED interior and exterior lights.
They do not work in the JK for some reason or they physically are too long to fit in other places. (Luckily they refunded me in full)
If any one is interested for other models, let me know?
If they have upgraded their JK interior to LED successfully, I'd be happy to hear from you
Thanks
1stJeep
05-10-12, 08:03 PM
I think you need to put resistors in line for the LED's to work in the Jeep. Read / heard it somewhere.
Yep as phil said.... LEDs have a low resistance, so low that the car can't figure out its there..... Resistors will fix that
Can you expand on the resistor thingy
The problem is in the two sets of courtesy lights (which was my main goal). - they work with the indicators, number plate etc except they don't actually fit, they are too long!
Well I worked out the LED's - I had the dimmer too low for them to come on. dooh!!! They now work sort of.
also on weekend I installed a metal mesh behind the front grill. For Jeep to leave it with gaping holes is stupid and it should be standard. Anyway - Off I went to look. The commercial version would be about $80+ and I'd have to wait. That's no good. So off I went to visit Supercheap and there it was hanging on the wall in several colours. Naturally being a conservative type I chose black. They come in one size only which happens to be JUST right, though you need to shorten the length. for $20 it was a bargain. I needed something to hold it, so off I went to bunnings to see what I could do while thinking of that sausage sizzle smell drifting through the building.
I bought some small cable ties & 3 packs of six peel & stick cable tie holders. A bit under $10.
Once I cable tied it all I wanted it even stronger so I squeezed some gooey mastic to smother the cables ties and holders & mesh to ensure a pemanent fix. It looked horrible from the back but there is no indication from the front and it looks great.
Highly recommend it.
Steve F
08-10-12, 11:36 PM
Speaking of LED's I've pretty much replaced all my light with LED's now and am replacing the front indicators now I have a digital flasher unit. Also ordered a set of CREE Q5 LEDs for the reverse lights, interested to see how they do as they are a more direct beam but seem very bright at 7W each.
This video (these are 5W) gives you an idea of what to expect with these single LED's. I ordered some extra to do the front indicators as well. Also looking at using some for some cheap homemade rocklights in PVC pipe, small and cheap :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kmC-6OSwLI
Cheers
Steve
Load resistors from jay car, 20ohms should the job.
Basically need to keep the same resistance in the circuit..... Seeing as LEDs don't draw as much power, you need to add more load to the system in order for them to work.
As mentioned. Ive got the interior leds working. They are something I can highly recommend
I simply had a brain lapse
I like SteveF would like to upgrade exterior lights but need different types/style
The hunt continues
I wanted to move the Warn Winch control box under the hood, to maximise air flow into the engine and through the grill mesh, as well as provide some protection & security
My intention is as always to avoid drilling holes or at least to minimise/hide them. So far I have not drilled anything.
Before I started I emailed Warn (who have always been prompt and responsive) I asked what I should do before I started. They advised that having the control box under the hood is fine also I need to keep the main power cable as short as possible but I would have to increase the 3 x black motor cables from SAE 2 to SAE 1 (or 1 B&S Copper cable as it's known in Oz). I estimated I needed 3 x 2m of black 1B&S cables plus lugs to reach the control box from the winch. The hunt began which ended up a 2 day search as not many companies stock this size . Finally found it on ebay but it was costly at $90 delivered.
To ensure hood clearance and easy, in case I use the main warn supplied control switch, I drilled a hole in front of the control box, moved the plug from the top to the front and it seems to work OK. I've already set up a in-cab kill & toggle switch to control the winch.
Just waiting for the delivery of the 3 cables to finalise the install.
Here is a images or two of my relocated control Box.
17131714
Steven.Boyd
12-10-12, 03:19 PM
looking good Steve
Will have to get it out again soon
Did you seal up the original hole in the top of the control box to stop any liquid or dirt getting in?
looking good Steve
Will have to get it out again soon
Did you seal up the original hole in the top of the control box to stop any liquid or dirt getting in?
Yes I do need to seal the top, with a piece of plastic and pop rivets/glue. but of course, you can never find a small piece of plastic when you need it..........
Funnily enough, I'm surprised how poorly sealed these boxes are. water and crap can always enter.
I must get a life ----- I ended up doing two jobs on the JK over last few days.
I like the idea of LED lit foot wells. They are cheap as chips & for under $9 for both sides with wiring attached delivered, it's just too cheap, besides they give you a warm fuzzy feeling, ha. Currently I have a switch to turn them on/off but I'm trying to find out how to make them come on automatically, when head lights come on & also when the courtesy lights do, when you unlock. They look cool in blue.
Also bought (under the wife's radar) an Ark Pack at the 4wd show at a real good price to use camping.
Hope to set it up in the cargo area which connects using an anderson plug & 4B&S cable to the main battery via a projecta dual battery system.. It's practical and can easily be removed from the Jeep and power what ever you need, where ever you need.
Just waiting on my H/duty 1B&S cables to connect the winch control box and delivery of the the special Suspension bolts from DBOR as Miraz, recommended a while back.
Then I'm finally finished modding the JK.
Paul-JK
15-10-12, 09:51 PM
Then I'm finally finished modding the JK.
You don't believe that any more than I do!
I looked at the Ark Power Pack as well. Can't make my mind up between one of them or getting something similar made up to my own spec by the local battery guys. I need to get something sorted as the old battery I was using when we went camping died a few months ago.
Paul, our 2nd battery is 65ah. Thumper Pack, by Blue Apple.com.au. It is a gel cell battery with an in car charging system. The thumper will run our 47 litre fridge/freezer for 3 days.
When camping the thumper runs the fridge and gets charged on the way to our destination. On arrival at the campsite the fridge and thumper are removed from the Jeep and placed in the tent, also Maggie uses the thumper to run the camp shower.
Paul-JK
16-10-12, 11:18 AM
Thanks. Certainly another option to look at.
Bear
I did consider the thumper. It has a lot of advantages and in a smaller size. The only negative - it's an expensive investment for what you get and is if the battery dies, it makes it a bit more so. I think the 48ah is about $540.....
I happen to have two deep cycle optima's in the shed and thought it best to utilise one of them. It has the added advantage to start any vehicle due to it's high CCA if the main dies. The Ark Pack cost me $135. If I did not have the optimas I would have given the thumper stronger consideration.
BTW The other Optima D35 48ah is for sale. It's just two years old and looking for a home.....
ive got a 2nd battery in mine from battery world..... came with a box, charger and the battery installed for about 1200........ its a 110aH dry cell battery, can be run at any angle etc..... have a squiz next meeting if you want steve
There is enough space under the front seats to mount a D35 on its side
There is enough space under the front seats to mount a D35 on its side
I'll check that out.
Thanks
I installed some upgraded head light globes from 60/55 to 100/90, which I bought a while back.
I'm worried that the wiring loom or the JK system will cause problems.
Do you see any issues or problems? Has any one done this successfully?
Thanks
Steven.Boyd
17-10-12, 10:19 AM
I am running them in my TJ but i am unsure for the JK
Why would the wiring loom cause problems?
Why would the wiring loom cause problems?
I spoke with some one at Piranah and they strongly advised against globe upgrade on the new JK. I asked about an upgraded wiring loom and they even said they would not want to sell me a upgrade loom as it won't protect the JK's system.
I did not really want to do so but I think a set of driving lights is on the board but way down the track............
I have now reinstalled the original globes - so if someone want the 100/90's they can PM me...
I spoke with some one at Piranah and they strongly advised against globe upgrade on the new JK. I asked about an upgraded wiring loom and they even said they would not want to sell me a upgrade loom as it won't protect the JK's system.
I did not really want to do so but I think a set of driving lights is on the board but way down the track............
I have now reinstalled the original globes - so if someone want the 100/90's they can PM me...
the wires/wiring are/is fine - However jk's have a current sensors on all circuits and if you change the headlight globes to nearly double the std wattage you risk tripping out the current sensors - this will be evident by the lights coming on for a few seconds and then turning off and then cycling from on to off kinda like your own personal disco LoL
my 2 cents - if you have jacked up your JK, ( 2" right Steve) your lights will already be in the rear vision mirror of cars you are following and a 90watt low beam will be very uncomfortable for the car in front especially whilst waiting at red traffic lights - I pity you if that car is a hwy patrol LoL
if you intend to run 90/100w globes then there is an easy solution, just run 1 of the 2 headlights off a relay. (double pole - hi & low beam)
cheers Hunty
the wires/wiring are/is fine - However jk's have a current sensors on all circuits and if you change the headlight globes to nearly double the std wattage you risk tripping out the current sensors - this will be evident by the lights coming on for a few seconds and then turning off and then cycling from on to off kinda like your own personal disco LoL
my 2 cents - if you have jacked up your JK, ( 2" right Steve) your lights will already be in the rear vision mirror of cars you are following and a 90watt low beam will be very uncomfortable for the car in front especially whilst waiting at red traffic lights - I pity you if that car is a hwy patrol LoL
if you intend to run 90/100w globes then there is an easy solution, just run 1 of the 2 headlights off a relay. (double pole - hi & low beam)
cheers Hunty
Good points Hunty. I'll stick with the stock ones for sure.
im up 3.5 inches and on 37's (jsut had to say it again) and i run HID's........... pulled up behind cop cars etc..........
rupicon
18-10-12, 12:54 PM
Did you say 37s
Steven.Boyd
18-10-12, 01:33 PM
the girls say it not even 3.5 inch and lucky to make 37 seconds
Bahahahaha you know Rey to well.
What, you want me to cuddle afterwards????
Today I got my 3 x 2M of #1 gauge cable to use between my Warn xd9000 & control box that I placed under the hood.
I soldered the 6 lugs and shrink wrapper the ends. So far so good. I routed the cables as best I could with addition split tubing. The cables witch I numbers first, back ensuring that I placed them in the right places.
The trouble I have is that it winds in OUT OK but does not wind IN.
I can hear the solenoids click but something is a miss.
Has any one an Idea/method on how I can test or fix this PLEASE
Steve
Well I worked out the problem. One of the solenoids was faulty. An easy test to do with a multi meter. Even though they were "clicking" it was not passing on the power. Ended up buying a new warn solenoid from mannel Motors for $38. At least they had them in stock. Fitted it , secured the cables etc and she is all working. yipee
Also got my Procal from Jeep Konection,, as they were the best value and it was in stock. what a good thing it is, it does what I wanted to.
I'll post pics later today.
Steve
The other day I finalised the duel Battery System. Unfortunately there is no room under the 3.6L hood, so......
Using a Projecta 150amp System, 6m of red 4B&S cable for the positive, 2M of black 2B&S cable for the negative and the Ark pack in the cargo area gave me the best option.
I ran the power cable from the projecta that sits on the main battery (using velcro) and ran it under the carpet to the cargo area where I installed a 175amp Anderson Style plug so I can easily remove/move the 2nd battery as required..
I hope pictures explain it better. It's a clean set up and works well. It also allows you to move your electrical requirements well away from the Jeep unlike fixed duel systems. I can even move it to the floor behine the driver's seat if I need flexibility.
Steve
172417251726
Relocated Number plate
As may know and as been discussed in the past, the position of the rear number plate when fitting a tow bar (or even larger tyres and/or rear Bar) can make repositioning of your number plate difficult. There is the option of the through the spare wheel attachment but then you can't have a cover. so lucky for me, my 5 digit plate fits Exactly in the Mopar License and light fitting holder, which is really designed for the American system but worked for me. It should comply. The normal 6 digit plate would not work without it hanging out the edge
1727
It doesn't comply....the spare wheel obscures the number plate by more than the local regs permit
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
rupicon
26-10-12, 06:00 AM
Nice one Stev
I just cut a small hole in the tyre cover
Miraz. I believe it complies as you can see the plate at 45• from any angle. Better than the standard position under the spare where funnily enough it does not comply
Ill see how ir goes but thanks
aussiejk
22-11-12, 07:43 PM
early 90s Pajero have there number plate off to the side as early prado... they are leagal
early jeeps had no doors........
Neither do mokes, n I still see a few cruising around with nothing being said. Go figure. Capital punishment for fun police I think.
it depends on the car..... (pre ADR)
early jeeps had no doors........
AND your point is ???
Saying that early paj's had their plates in the side means its ok across the board.
So cos early jeeps had no doors does that mean its ok across the board?
Me thinks not.
Reyzor - ohhhh " I agree with Rey"
Over last few days I've been installing a stabalizer relocation bracket for the JK. DON'T do it using off the shelf products!
also
Has any one installed a set of drawers in the rear of their JK. I'm after a few ideas in preparation of our big trip next year>
Thanks
Over last few days I've been installing a stabalizer relocation bracket for the JK. DON'T do it using off the shelf products!
also
Has any one installed a set of drawers in the rear of their JK. I'm after a few ideas in preparation of our big trip next year>
Thanks
Following on from your first point of "Don't use off the shelf products" this applies to drawers too if you can find a JK specific design, If you want I can get you the details of the guy who built mine, everything is designed and made to fit like a glove, sturdy, no rattling and it's your own design to suit your own special needs to whatever space restrictions.
177217731774
Hope this helps.
Following on from your first point of "Don't use off the shelf products" this applies to drawers too if you can find a JK specific design, If you want I can get you the details of the guy who built mine, everything is designed and made to fit like a glove, sturdy, no rattling and it's your own design to suit your own special needs to whatever space restrictions.
177217731774
Hope this helps.
YES Please
Hi Steve
Have just changed my iPhone and need to get the contacts off the old one.
Will bring his details to the Xmas party tomorrow.
I have seen other fitouts he's done and was very impressed at the quality and designs, the good thing is you design what you want and he builds it.
See you at Hornsby.
Hi Steve.
The name is Luke, the business name is Severs Creations located at 2/2 Apollo Street Warriewood.
His mobile is: 0406 997 959 and his Email: luke@severscreations.com.au
His website is still under construction.
If you need anything else just let me know.
dobbo56
03-12-12, 07:57 PM
Steve, there is a guy on AJOR selling a set of draws for a JKU for 350.00 or there abouts, they are home made but look well done and only up near Maitland. check em out , thread is Newcastle, Draws JKU. Cheers Doggy Dave..
Further on in my attempt to raise the stabilizer higher to improve clearance and minimise risk to the stabilizer.
After purchasing the Synergy relocation bracket (The only one I could find for RHD) and a Synergy relocation tie-rod clamp, I ran into a problem..... On full right lock, the relocation bracket hits the drag link. This is not a good thing!
After consulting (or rather arguing with the supplier and being told "we have fitted 100's of these and never a problem". I had to send them images like this to prove my point. The denial kept going...
I have three options:
1. return the item, which they were happy to accept though it would cost me about $50ish (freight to/from and restocking)
2. On-sell and recoup some cost.
3. modify the bracket somehow
1781
Has any one come up with a solution on relocating their stabilzer on the JK? Please let me know
Steve
Has any one come up with a solution on relocating their stabilzer on the JK? Please let me know
Synergy have a kit of parts to flip the drag link over the knuckle - this includes a version of the stabiliser bracket, but the drag link flip gets it up and out of the way of the stabiliser.
So - swap your existing bracket for this - http://www.doubleblackoffroad.com/Products/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Front-Steering-Correction-Kit
http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4118/5443499706_d4bef4864e.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/53502431@N02/5443499706/)
Front left (http://www.flickr.com/photos/53502431@N02/5443499706/) by SeeminglyAbsent (http://www.flickr.com/people/53502431@N02/), on Flickr
yep, do what geoff said...... it makes the car handle the bumps better too.....
Thanks Geoff & Rey. I'd like to take up your suggestion - looks like a good piece of hardware but I'm short on coin at the moment,
though...
Today I went all out with the grinder (what the heck, I can always return to stock) and shaved off 20mm off the edge which meant I needed to redrill the two holes further in. Luckily there is enough metal surround to adequately support the bolt through the stabilizer
I'm confident that this will fix my issue.
Steve
Hey Steve
Wolfe mentioned something about ordering club shirts at the end of the last meeting and then promptly dropping you in it.
Can you let me know the details.
Cheers,
Shefy.
Shefy
We ordered 25 shirts several months ago as it's the minimum run. I doubt we will run another for quite a while.
I do however, have some that have been paid for & not collected. We will let them have another month to collect else I 'll put them up for re-sale.
Not sure of sizes left but will repost them in January
Thanks, I thought that was what you said last time I asked you about it but when wolfe brought it up at the meeting I thought there's going to be a new run.
As we know the head lights of a JK are pretty ordinary so I was thinking (again I know) to replacing the standard head light with better globes while at the same time remaining "standard" ie same wattage and ADR approved.
I was able to get some Narva 120Plus globes pretty cheap. so I installed them today. Takes about 15 minutes including removal of grill etc
First un-clip right & left indicators under from guards.
Un-clip the six black plastic tabs on top of of grill, slowly by prying with flat screw driver. pull grill towards you and reach inside to force open the 5 metal tabs that secure the lower part of the grill.
Move grill to one side.
Unscrew the four t15 screws that secure the chrome surround. hold light and remove the two harness plugs in rear, the parker will just pull out while the main needs to side tabs squeezed. It's a bit tight but easy to do.
Remove rubber dust cover and un-clip existing globes. DO not touch the glass!
Install new globes (there is only one way to fit them) Again do not touch globes.
Reinstall rubber dust cover neatly and wiring harness. Screw in chrome ring and replace grill, re-install side indicators and test.
Easy upgrade that is totally in keeping with the jeep and easily reversible if needed
Money well spent I have those in the kj also
dobbo56
20-12-12, 05:29 PM
i bought a set of these from Supercheap on sale with matching blue parking lamp globes, i will put them in over the xmas break, interested to see how much better they are than the 50+ i have in now. Doggy Dave...
Dave for only $39.99 - it has to be better...... Funny they were actually cheaper than the 100+
Even though the JK has only 4500k and less than 4 months, I thought it best to get a wheel alignment done after having lifted it soon after birth and not having done an alignment yet.
She drives pretty well and handles acceptably well too but it tends to veer ever so slightly left but more annoyingly rather than drastically.
So off I went to Pro-axle in Enfield. What a great place that is properly equipped to handle all manner of 4wd and trucks PLUS very informative (even though they ribbed me about owning a Jeep, all in jest)
They informed me that the ball joints and tie rods were already showing movement. Surprising as it's only 4 months old, not much but enough to keep an eye on. They also fixed the toe-out back to slight toe-in and set the caster to 8. Seems it was set wrongly at the factory. Unfortunately the right camber is out with no adjustability (unless I get a offset ball joint, which I won't). This will only affect tyre wear, No biggy.
SO FAR, I highly recommend them as they seem to know what it's all about. I suggest you do the same.
Steve
Paul-JK
03-01-13, 01:45 PM
Hey Steve,
I've also got a slight movement in the ball joints but it seems that it's another one of these "Jeep things". Everyone I've spoken to who knows 4WD's says there shouldn't be any but Jeep seem to allow up to about 1.5mm movement and still class it as "within spec". As you say, something to keep an eye on and if it gets worse then swap them out for some decent ones instead of the crappy stock ones.
You mention the caster is set to 8, which I assume is 8 degrees. Is that right or is it a typo? As far as I know caster should be between 4.5˚ & 5˚. If your's is at 8˚ it's a lot higher than spec. I'm happy to be proved wrong (only going from what I've heard elsewhere) but at that angle your drive shaft uni's might not have enough movement to allow the axle to drop as it flexes off road and/or the angle of the CV joint will max out on the transfer case end (or both).
Paul
Paul
Long time no hear. I hope you are well.
Yes 8 degrees which it has been all along apparently. The guy assured me that it comes from factory close to 8 and it should remain as such. Seems the only major thing was the toe, She runs pretty well. I would like to have installed a RTC damper but clearance may be an issue
Paul-JK
04-01-13, 11:42 AM
Hi Steve,
Yes, it's been a busy few weeks between work, Xmas and family visiting. Seem like ages since I was out off road and haven't been on here much either. Did you have a good Xmas?
While I've not got any Chrysler specs, I've read loads of posts on other forums (AJOR, Jeepforum, project-jk) that all say that factory caster is about 4.2˚ and that after lifting you should aim to get it back to between 4.0˚ and 4.5˚. There are posts warning about going over 5˚ and people claiming they've broken front drive shafts with caster settings of about 6˚. Might be worth putting your's up with axle stands under the chassis rails to allow the axle to drop fully and see if the drive shaft still rotates easily......just in case. Better to find out on the driveway rather than in the middle of a rutted track. As I said before, I'm happy to be proved wrong as I'm certainly no mechanic but based on what others have said, and looking at mine (mine's only a 2.5" flexy spring lift with 4.5˚ caster and the drive shaft CV joint does have a lot of spare movement under full flex) I'd double check just in case.
Paul
I appreciate your points and will test out your theory about easy rotation etc. where did you read about issues over 5 degrees? I'd like to read up on that.
The caster was set by default by me on installation of the lift a week after I bought the JK, I had no idea what the caster was. I only extended the lower control arms about 15mm equally both sides. The aligner left the caster as is as I have had no problems with it's drivability.
You may be right in the future, but see what happens.
I'd be a little nervous with 8 degrees with the stock front driveshaft too...if you start to get any vibration from the front shaft at speed then you may need to back it down.
I'd also be curious about how they adjusted the caster, as there is minimal adjustment if you still have the non-adjustable stock arms...did they fit camber adjusting bushes/bolts?
I'd be a little nervous with 8 degrees with the stock front driveshaft too...if you start to get any vibration from the front shaft at speed then you may need to back it down.
I'd also be curious about how they adjusted the caster, as there is minimal adjustment if you still have the non-adjustable stock arms...did they fit camber adjusting bushes/bolts?
Paul-JK
04-01-13, 12:16 PM
where did you read about issues over 5 degrees? I'd like to read up on that.
If you google "jk wrangler caster settings" it'll show you posts on the forums I mentioned.
geoff
They did not adjust the caster. I ended up with that. I have synergy lower CA's. She runs smooth as silk with no vibrations (SO FAR). but I take your point.
They only needed to adjust Toe which was -20 to 0.
They mentioned my caber RH is too low and can not be fixed without adjustable ball joint.
I just rang them to better explain their "report" which was hard to read.
It looks like the caster is 7 for the left and 6.5 for the right. Not 8 as I said! (Now I'm not sure where I got 8 in my head!) must be dementia!
I hope that better explains it
Paul-JK
04-01-13, 12:53 PM
She runs smooth as silk with no vibrations (SO FAR).
I know when I tried extending my adjustable LCA's to solve a different issue it really tightened the steering up. It ran so smooth over bumps it was unreal but in doing that I'd pushed the caster up over 5˚ (and it didn't solve my other issue anyway) so in the end I had to wind it back a bit.
Over last few days. I had a longranger (near Newcastle) install a 68l aux tank to my 4 door with the pentastar. A first for the 3.6l. It involved changing exhaust and moving canaster as well, They did a real professional job. A pleasure to hand over the money. The staff were friendly and explained it all, even their work shop is clean and organised. I only wished other companies took a leaf from these guys.
I highly recommend them and would get the Jeep serviced there except they are a bit far away from my home.
BTW the Aux tank hangs exactly same height as the stock. I also got the H/D base for extra protection. Gives me 153l capacity, which is good for travelling the outback, which I'm doing in Aug 13. It should equate to well over 1000k cruising and atleast 700k of hard offroad
Haven't done much since install of the AUX tank back in January
I did manage to sell the last few WJ parts and accessories to help cure my addiction.
Installed an AEV snorkel to fit with the new 3.6. A good piece of kit and nice fit though pricey.(besides no other options)
Installed a cheap pair of D/lights. A bit better than stock headlights
Installed a 2nd battery (Optima) in the cargo area controlled by a projecta isolator under the hood, to run the fridge or what ever
also installed set of switches that are handy and easy to use.
216521632162
Rather than start a new thread I thought I'd post up here
Today we (the wife and I) started our 3 week trip to SA via Birdsville and lake Eyre etc etc.
With the intention of taking it pretty easy our first stop over is Dubbo in a nice hotel close to the centre of town. But amazingly it took us just under 6 hours with a short stop in Lithgow for lunch ( I say short by country folk standard.
I think the first part will be the hardest as the roads are shocking in some parts with plenty of climbing and twists which I don;t think suite the auto that comes with the JK. Just seems not suited or matched as it often goes to 2nd to keep up the speed but over all the JK did a good job and does overtake easily, so far on the black top. averaging around 12-12.5 which I think is good for getting over the blue mountains, It should improve once it flattens out a bit.
Next stop is Cobar after a short visit to Dubbo Zoo as we have free passes.
Nice job Steve, hope you have a GREAT trip! Whenever I have headed that way my first night has been Cobar, but you should enjoy the zoo at Dubbo, lots nicer than walking around Taronga. Dubbo to Cobar won't take too long, couple of hours, but watch out for goats on the road heading into and out of town, especially early and late in the day! Hope you are booked at the Oasis, and head down to the Bowling Club for a HUGE chinese banquet.
Darn, now I wish I was on the road too!
Dave
Dave, the Chinese was Magnificient. Rolled back full and sleepy
Just arrived BHill. Weather is 23 and clear
Awesome! Veeeeeery jealous!
After arriving in Bhill we did a few touristy stuff before eating out the Palace hotel
In dubbo i put 98 octane abt 100 l. But amazingly my fuel consuption went up to 13.75/100. This is disappointing. I sat on about 100-105kph
I was expecting less. Though if i drop to 90 it improves about 10%+
Ive now refilled with 91. (Usually use 95) so ill see how it goes. But all good so far
redrubi
30-07-13, 10:41 AM
Very jealous Steve!!
Just a thought, out there in Dubbo the 98 octane may be 'mixed' (as in not true 98), some unscrupable country stations do this.
I'de try again.
Cheers
Andy
Andy
You may be right. So i try to use only shell or caltex
I just think its a jk thing. Economy is no where like they advertise. Ill see how the jk goes towards tibooburra any beyond with 91
I also need to take care approaching speeding trucks as the hood lifts up a few inches a bit Scary. When itcatches the push of air
Need to invest in a hood latch or bonnet lock of some sort. Any ideas?
Btw. The coffee in bhill is crap so far. So on the lookout
The hood lifting is pretty common, I've known lots of JK's experience that on the open road. Pretty sure that Wooders sells replacement bonnet lock downs that don't stretch (what are they called??) to replace the factory ones. Lots of people have locks as well...
The Musicians Club in BH does a good feed and coffee...
You will be doing well averaging 90kph once you are on the dirt West from Tibooburra, so your economy should improve.
Enjoy!
The hood lifting is pretty common, I've known lots of JK's experience that on the open road. Pretty sure that Wooders sells replacement bonnet lock downs that don't stretch (what are they called??) to replace the factory ones. Lots of people have locks as well...
The Musicians Club in BH does a good feed and coffee...
You will be doing well averaging 90kph once you are on the dirt West from Tibooburra, so your economy should improve.
Enjoy!
Have also read that you can use zip ties around the latches to reduce the hood flutter - also, removing the spring at the front of the bonnet *supposedly* helps to eliminate the flutter - I personally dont know as have never experienced it myself and have done none of the mentioned remedies!
Today we leave bhill and the dirt starts soon after towards tibooburra
Im glad we have a long wheel base as roads are a challenge for rigid axled vehicles. I can now see why they drive big toyos and plenty of late mod pajeros. They have the power and comfort. Actually pajs seem most comon among caravaners then prados and 80 series. Caravaners are very friendly and full of information
Following your trip report with interest, keep em coming - wish I was out there.
redrubi
31-07-13, 05:45 PM
I only use BP Ultimate! They are the only one who claims not to mix!
Pls excuse my typing as i can get internet on mobile but noy laptop wireless
Any way we got to innamincka yesterday and all is well. The rds r quite good except lat 50k into innaminka which r shocking rough as guts. Even the locals said they were worse than ever before. Shook the jk but it held together nicely. Only thing i noticed was that my power steering fluid is bibbling when driven for a while and enhine runs. Not seen that before and not sure if a problem but cant see any thing and levels are spot on. Even after several hours
We leave gor birdsvill tomorw The weather is warm at 23. With tshirt a must. Forgot my thongs. Fuel economy is12-13 after using 91 only. Its 2.05 here but fild oy 60l
We r going through walkers crossing after speaking with others as its better rd than cordello downs. It has just been reopened after several years. I hope we dont get lost.
Food is exceptionaly good. Kangaroo last nite and angela had goat. Probably shot locally...
Till nxt time i have acess
karipori
02-08-13, 07:53 PM
hi guys, i don't know how to start a new post, iv just bought a 2010 jeep patriot mk sports where in Australia do i get a nudge bar to fit any help would be appreciated thank you
Steve, looking forward to hearing about Walkers Crossing! Have never been out that way when its open, you lucky b... You shouldn't get lost, just head West and eventually you will hit the Birdsville Track!
Now even more jealous!!
Dave
Well here we are in coober pedy after wonderful trip along dirt for last few weeks. No internet till now as my windows 8 pc wont connect to some wifi but occasional yes. So if anyone knows why. Pls tell me as its easier to type on pc rather thsn iphone
Anyway the jk hasdone well with no dramas except slight seep ftom front shock but only slight. Other thing is fuel consuption is awfully higher than it ought to be. With tyres at 28-29 all the way on dirt myconsuption has gone as high as 15l+ /100 averagewhen it should be around 11-12. I ll hve to look i to why as i sat at around 85-90 kph for most but occassionally slower
Dave the walkers track was very good withv few pplusing it. Has wide 5 lane highway down to 1 lane twisty sand ruts. Plenty of different terrain and very isolated as we saw maybe 3 4wd in 5 hours. Roads were better than i though though some real roughstuff rather than corrigations except maybe close to innaminka which locals toldme was badby their standrds. Ill writ morewhen hve access to pc keyboard
Fuel wasupt to 2.05 but as little as 2.60 in other places
Today we did aflight over lake eyre after staying at williamcreek pub. Magic!!!!
Tommrw we start towards home viaport augusta and mildura etc etc and hopfully wife will bypass the opal shops
Finally got wireless on my laptop seems a dhcp issue which I chanced upon, not sure if I posted this but can anyone tell me:
Has anyone any comments about why my power steering fluid (http://www.bizrate.com/power-steering-fluid/index__af_assettype_id--4__af_creative_id--3__af_id--[AFF-ID]__af_placement_id--[AFF-PLACEMENT-ID].html) might be bubbling. with very rough roads and wondering if this is normal. It bubbles when idling after a long stint of rough roads when i check it. It been hours since I did last check and all levels are right and no leaks. Its a 3.6 pentastar.
Any comments would be appreciated
Probably shaken it into a nice frothy thick shake. :emmersed:
Talking about a thick shake Had the best chocolate thick shake ever at Bells 50's style Milk Bar in Broken Hill
Plenty of history out here and i revommend everyone do this. The wife loves visiting old court houses as she works for the courts. We keep stopping at historic towns and things that really amaze us how our pioneers managed it all.
Im getting more tired as the days progresd as clocked about 4500 k so far. I must be old. Jk goes alright It really loves dirt roads. but its not a LONG tourer type. It excels on dirt road doing 80-95 with tyres at 28 but high 100+ on tar is its weak pt. its here that it tired me out but that might just be me. It also doesnt like passing big trucks so care required
We r also amazed at the quality and quantity of country food. It has always been tasty and large portions and cheaper than we expected, at times in the most unlikly looking pubs in small one horse towns. I love my schnitzel and vegies. We slacked off in coober pedy and ordered a pizza which was 2 ft in diametre! We could not finish it.
If u want to know more. Let me know
Tnite we r in renmark sa
Nxt stop echuca via mildura then perhaps canberra or there abts
Ill post pics on my return
Brilliant Steve! Sounds like you will now be a confirmed distance tourer, looking forward to your company in future!!
Glad you are coming back the 'long' way. The road that follows the south side of the Murray from Mildura to Echuca and on to Albury is a nice drive! Echuca is a beaut town, very historic - hope you have time for a trip on a paddle steamer. Lots more piccies!
Looking forward to an exceptional trip report, with pics, next meeting!
Safe drive home,
Dave
Dave
Yes, it's a good drive Dave, though I think SA has better and nicer more scenic routes.
And yes, we did end up staying in Echuca for two nights, got a great deal in a brand new unit in town.
Did the Paddler steamer trip though it was the coldest day in 3 weeks plus I got a filthy cold that made it a little harder to enjoy. The wife loved it. The paddler steamer was nice and there were only 6 people on board.
Tomorrow we leave for home via Wagga or there abouts, and we may spend one more night somewhere depending on how I feel (cold wise). Trust me to get a cold towards the end.
I will post some things on my observations on the trip , so to help others who may think of doing something similar.
I am happy that I upgraded my suspension to accommodate the rough roads, I have bilsteins with flexy coils, which worked a treat (though one shock seeps a little but still worked well. and that I have the unlimited rather than a 2 door. Not sure how others do it in a shorty. Also very impressed with the BFgoodrich km2 tyres. They are an exceptional tyre on and off road with minimal noise, plenty of grip with no loss of traction on dirt plus they have worn little over the time since being on the JK and the WJ. The economy improved as the days went on and I put that down to the quality of fuel in the bush. They seem to use a thing called metrogas, which I've never heard of. Now getting a respectable fuel usage (once I started using caltex or shell) of about low to mid 12/100, rather than mid 14 earlier in the piece. The trick for me was to set the cruise at 100. It did not like doing 110 or more for some reason both in economy and smoothness on the road. It is after all a brick on wheels and designed for tough tracks rather than touring. but it can be made to be close to it.
I was also surprised on the seating as I thought my back (which is not the best anyway) would ache over the time. It was fairly comfortable and the wife thought so too.
Some things I recommend to do and which I would do before next trip, is get bonnet locks as the bonnet moved a lot when heading into head winds or a truck. Install a set of drawers to help with organisation and to prevent dust ingress. Though I was surprised that the dust inside was minimal but much much better than I expected. Use several smaller bags rather a big suite case.
While my 5" garmin gps did a good job and most tracks are catered for, it just does not cut it for touring the outback. It does however give you routable topo which I think no other GPS does. I think a ipad with hema maps along with a paper map will make a worthwhile complement with my Garmin and make it a lot easier to navigate. It also would help when researching things like accommodation and points of interest rather than my little screen iphone. Talking about Iphone. Optus is crap outside major cities, Also most times, Angela's little android samsung got 3g when I got nothing at all. Very strange....
The longest stint between reliable fuel was about 540k so I was happy I had the AUX tank, though I may have made it on one normal tank.
Dave, I kept thinking of your recent, "interaction with an Emu" when travelling, as there were heaps of Emu, Goats, Roos, Cattle all over the place BUT no camels!
we have about 700 piccies...
Most memorable moment was standing on top of Big Red. See attachement
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That will do for the moment.
Steve
That's a great photo Steve.
Awesome photo! Last time we were there - club trip 2010 - all you could see was water! Where those cars are parked was about one metre deep!
It is an awesome part of the country to visit, and depending on other trips (possible Cape York, jambo etc etc) I'd like to get back out there in the next year or two! Full desert crossing this time!
See you next meeting, and really glad you had such a good trip - except for the cold!
Dave
Dave, it was wonderful. Angela took heaps of photos. The other side did have water and there was a diversion around the lake.
It certainly encouraged me AND surprisingly Angela, who is already planning next trip. Flinders sounds nice, as it's very beautiful from where we passed by or Kakadu (but that's a long way away and would need many weeks. I might look into shipping the Jeep some how as it would make the trip so much better for me (bad back) .
One thing I learnt is to take more rest days, to help recover and enjoy it so much better. For me anyway.
We managed to do about 6000ks. Whoa that's a lot.
Ill talk with you at the Sept Meeting
Dave
Just one of many photos
:2373
Just some of the many photos we took. enjoy
2394 The worst Corrugation of the trip 50k of rough as guts
2395 Silverton Pub
2396 Airing down just after Broken Hill towards Pack Saddle
2397 Flowers a plenty
2398 Great Pub food
2399 A more scenic trip rather than the main road
24002401
2402 2403 Just for DAVE and GLEN - we Took the Walkers crossing which was just opened after 3 years, saved about 100k. ps that should read walkers crossing not Birdsville Track
More images:
2404 Typical of nothing around
2405 Lunch where ever you wanted
2406 Finally made our main goal
2407 Drinks in the Birdsville Pub
2408 All sorts of vehicles, not all made it up. Many tag along tours too
2409 Where I started
2410 Made it up in one go, to the astonishment of onlookers, GO THE JK
2411 Amazing Views at the top and the Highlight of our Dream Trip
2412 Plenty of this
2413 Heaps of these signs but only really crossed one creek with water in the whole trip
2422 A little fellow we came across, wasn't happy for me to move him off the road
2423 LAke Eyre was amazing place to see. Took ous nearly 30 minutes to get to the edge
2424 A true highlight of the trip. So vast, empty yet full of things
2425 2426 A worth while investment
2427 PLenty of bikers with organised tours, and many overseas participants. real friendly but MAD
2428 Took us 25 minutes to just walk to the end
2429 6am and freezing at William Creek
Steve, that big red sand dune, would that have been doable with a camper trailer, or was it stupid soft????
Btw, love the pics!!!
Wally
I doubt that many 4wd would do it with a trailer. I "just" managed it first time on two different approaches but I put that down to the power & lighter weight. The muddies held it up a bit as they dug in quite a lot (see photos) and I only dropped down to 18psi.
There were many others, mostly loaded up to the hilt that really struggled or gave up after several attempts. They included many of common models. The were Pajs, GU, Prados, FJ (just could not get close) There was a GU patrol diesel that could not do it (looked heavy) but I suggest he do it in high range, he laughed but said he'd try it and the result was a success on his 4th attempt. He was a happy camper . Im quite impressed with the pajero's abilities and they were very common among the grey nomands pulling vans.
Was that the only way, or could you have gone around it some way??
Wallyd Most people went up then back down to travel another way across the Simpson. But I can't really be positive. Though I do know that many people who were pulling vans and trailers unhitched them(left them somewhere secure) before they went across the Simpson doing camping. presumably picking them up again on their return
There are a couple of tracks over Big Red, and a way (the long way) around it too. But you can only get a sticker saying "I Conquered Big Red" if you have!!!
In the next year or two, I'm going back (depends on when we do the Cape again). For a full desert crossing ideally! NO camper trailers!!
Steve, those are some awesome pix, looks like you had a great time, and I am really, really jealous!!!
Dave
Dave
It exceeded my expectations. I want to go back and have Cobar Chinese again!!
I have a couple of ideas to do next year too. Angela mentioned , she'd like to do in no particular order:
Flinders Ranges
Kakadu
Alice/Ularu or Darwin and surrounds
Might look into freighting the Jeep one way and driving back. Do you know about that?
What you think?
or even a a gold fosiking week some where with metal detectors. never done that before but there are companies that you can tag along with and they will teach it for you. Intesting
Glad you had a great time Steve. Syl and I are planning the same in a couple of years to the Cape, Kakadu, somewheres, somewheres.
Spoke to the owner at
Miners DenGold Prospecting Equipment - North Parramatta, NSW
411 Church St, North Parramatta NSW 2151
An extremely knowledgeable bloke with all the pans and detectors you might want. Give them a ring if you're interested and finding out more about tag along tours. I've used them detectors a couple of times, gave it up however as I found it to be a bit on the slow side, but that's just me..
What range would you need as a minimum? I'm thinking 1000k's to be safe. The GC is crap for range at the moment but will get longer ranger & aero tanks done sometime.
Sal When I had my WG it had an aux tank of extra 65l from memory plus the stock 72. On the open road, the grand gave me about the same as the JK except around town it was shocking. Surprisingly when I had the stock 29" tyres I would get about 11.5/100 on the open road. just shows about gearing effects.
To be safe you need at least 750k in case you need to detour or back track for some reason. Naturally, in the steep, slow stuff that would blow out considerably.
Sounds like you had a great trip Steve,glad that your wife enjoyed it as well. I have just returned from a similar trip,had four days notice of going so no pressure setting up the JK. Sydney Bourke Plenty Highway to East McDonnalds Ruby Gap fossiking for Rubies (garnets) Arltunga gold mineing town Trephina Gorge down to Alice on to Palm Valley Kings Canyon Uluru Olga's then across to Finke via LAMBERTS CENTRE OF AUSTRALIA on to Mount Dare Dalhousie Springs for a wash then Oodnadatta to Marree into the Flinders Ranges for another walk,no soles left on boots, Broken Hill Menindee Lakes for a swim,Ivanhoe Lake Cargelligo Parkes to home,7530 Klm's 1 battery, broken awning bracket (fixed bush style) cracked roof rack bracket (fixed by webbing strap) lots of fuel,lots of corrugations,lots of fun,all done in a shorty JK.Vast open spaces,abundant wild life,swimming in clear pools( cold,it is winter!) expect to get dirty( it
Expect to get dirty(it is very dry out there) bush camping for most of the time cooking on open fires watching the stars sleeping out in the open( it only lightly rained in the Flinders over night once) yes we did get to use four wheel drive quite a bit.Already planning next trip and mods( must beef up suspension), otherwise JK did the job perfectly.Regards Dick.
Nice to hear Dick. Im also looking fwd to next years trip havnt decided where yet but down to a few ideas.
If anyone is interested in a accommodation style (though you could camp). Please show your interest and suggestions
Im also contemplating viability doing the trip with my furry kid!
Steve
After experiencing plenty of hood lifting passing Big Semis etc at 100kph on the highways, I installed one of the better accessories that you can have for your JK (and I suppose the TJ)
It's a set of Rugged Ridge Hood latches. Really solid, well made and easy to install with no extra modifications. Took all of 15 minutes and some basic tools. Get yours today from Wooders....as I know he had a few extra shipped in..
2461
we had to upgrade our TJ one's after one was sheared off going 110ish and a truck passed in the opposite direction about 30km's from Wilcania
I keep saying to my self to stop spending but I just had to do one more small thing that was bugging me.
I installed a pair of rear coil wedges to straighten up the coils. Got a pair of poly correction wedges from SBR who are excellent to deal with. Ordered Wed, arrived this morning
Now the springs sit absolutely straight as. Takes only about 30-40 minutes to do.
All you need is at level ground & rest, to install a pair of coil retainer clamps. Use a 1/2" ratchet gun (much easier with a gun else use a socket) to squeeze the coils. Use a BIG jack to lift the chassis, till tyres just get off the ground, remove springs, place wedges, replace springs, lower Jeep, undo retainers then do other side. Be sure the vehicle is well supported as with no spring it could come crashing down on the axle or worse on you.
It does however raise Jeep a bit but that was only about 6mm. Nothing really.
So happy now
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